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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
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Floppy Boot Stamp 
Large Crack 
Learner's Permit 
Make It So 
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Upper Cut 

Floppy Boot Stamp 

5.8-

   
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Type: Trad, 2 pitches, 195 feet
Consensus: 5.8- [details]
FA: ?
Season: spring/ fall
Submitted By: Doug Redosh on Apr 26, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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From the base with Brian at the 1st belay. P2 can...

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Description 

Ignore the V0- in the rating. It is a typo that I could not remove.

Crux is the exposed upper headwall. There are several loose blocks, but otherwise a good adventure for the 5.8 trad leader.

P1 Climb the small crack for 15', traverse R on small ledge, then up crack system to 2 bolt anchor (55').

P2 Up the slot above anchors, trending left to avoid loosely attached block. Up easy rock for 40 feet, then attack the head wall via hand and finger cracks. Avoid a loosely attached block at the top (140').

Descent: We walked 100' W to the anchors atop Epidote.


Location 

20' R of large R facing dihedral at R end of crag, and just R of Down to the Wire, which has a bolt about 30' up.


Protection 

Standard rack.



Photos of Floppy Boot Stamp Slideshow Add Photo
Brian approaching the top shortly after bumping the blocks and fearing missiles hitting US 6 below.

Brian approaching the top shortly after bumping th...


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By Dave Clark 5.10
From: Golden, CO
Apr 26, 2010
rating: 5.8-

Generally nice climbing even though a bit dirty. As Doug mentioned, beware of a couple loose blocks on P2. One is to the left about 15 ft up from the belay ledge atop P1 and the other is about 12 ft from the top of P2 right in the route line. Both are 20-30 lb and would probably land on US 6 below (so we didn't dare clean them). We were also wary of a refrigerator-sized block about 10 ft directly above the P1 belay ledge that has cracks on both sides and no bottom support, and avoided using the cracks on either side of it.

By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Apr 26, 2010

Who ever put this up has great taste in music. Captain Beefheart is the man.

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
May 5, 2010

This climb is probably better if you lower off after P1. The 2nd pitch has some definite scruff. There are a number of holds that shift, some blocks that move if you accidentally bump it with a knee, and pleasant bushes to scratch you up.