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First Buttress
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Ben Dunne T 
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Cross Eyed and Blind S 
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Floaters 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
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Page Views: 753
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Sep 21, 2009

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Description 

This is yet another great climb at the First Buttress. Start by climbing up very easy blocky ledges to a large ledge where to you can clip the first bolt. From here, climb the short face using very positive horizontals to mantle up to a stance. (place a cam after the mantle if you like). The easiest way to access the arete is to climb around the left side of the small overhang and traverse back to the right on a large ledge. After you clip the bolt, climb up on the left side of the arete to gain the next bolt. The crux is the section leading toward and away from the 3rd bolt. From the 3rd bolt, head around the right side of the arete and stay on that side to the top.


Location 

This is the obvious orange arete on the left side of the crag.


Protection 

7 bolts, (a small cam with a long runner can be placed between the first and second bolt). It's not necessary though, even with the gear, you would not want to take the fall and it's very easy terrain. cam size: .5-1" shuts at top.



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