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 ADVANCED
Main Boulder aka The Wedge
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chick Floater 
Chick Power 
Cupcake 
Don't Tell Mom TR 
Floater aka Center Route 
Heinous Gayness 
Left El Jeffe 
Pungase 
Smoker's Paradise Project 
Southeast Arete 
Trail Route S,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Floater aka Center Route 

Hueco: V5 Font: 6C

   
Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 4,872
Submitted By: D Argyle on Jan 31, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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Going for the knob.

Description 

This is the obvious line up the middle of the main boulder's south face. Get to the sloper and then up to a knob to top out. Landing is good.

Protection 

None.


Photos of Floater aka Center Route Slideshow Add Photo
Photo by Lordscience.
Photo by Lordscience.
Jake Carroll on the Floater, V5.
Jake Carroll on the Floater, V5.
Floater.
Floater.
On the knob.
On the knob.
Jerad on Floater.
Jerad on Floater.
Toping out.
BETA PHOTO: Toping out.
Floatage.
Floatage.
On the sloping rail <br />-beta from left side start.
On the sloping rail
-beta from left side start.
Sidepull.
Sidepull.
Low on the route.
Low on the route.
Trying out Mark Tjaden's beta on the far left foot for us short guys.
Trying out Mark Tjaden's beta on the far left foot...

Comments on Floater aka Center Route Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 2, 2012
By Michael West
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 8, 2008

Getting to the sloper is way harder for shorter people.
By loc
From: colorado springs co
Jul 28, 2009

My fav problem in this wall.
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Jul 29, 2009
rating: V5 6C

HAAARRRD. Took me forever to get. Cool problem though. I did the other V4s at Ute within a few days, while this took me a few months so I would say this is solid V5.
By Bob Robinson
From: Lone Tree, Colorado
Oct 25, 2010
rating: V5 6C

This one feels stout. Are people bumping from the good ledge from "Chick Power" before heading to the sidepull, or just cranking through?
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Oct 25, 2010
rating: V5 6C

I've seen people bump off that hold, I don't use it. I don't think it changes the rating significantly.
By David Hertel
From: Sitka
Dec 27, 2010

It seems like the consensus is to approach the sloper from the right side and sort of hook the bump with the left hand, but I found that way to be an incredible stretch I can barely make. I prefer to start with a pinch in the hueco on the left side and walk my hands across the sloping rail to grab the bloc. The only problem with this beta is the feet suck and it's hard to stay on without a toe hook. If you use this beta, be prepared to dyno to the chicken head from the bloc with low feet.
By Keith H. North
From: Englewood, CO
May 24, 2011
rating: V5-6 6C+

Got on this today, I am pretty short 5'8" with a +1 A.I. So that move to the sloper is pretty big for me, and till I dialed it was very low percentage.

This took me quite some time to send even though it is definitely not my style.

To me it felt more like a V6.
By Culver
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 4, 2011

Finally sent this a couple days ago! Probably my favorite problem in this area now that I can stick more than just the first move.
By JasonT
Jun 4, 2011
rating: V4-5 6B+

Nice job, Culver...getting strong, man!!
By Lucas79
From: Malden, MA
Jun 20, 2011
rating: V5+ 6C+

This would be a solid V5 anywhere in the country. Awesome problem, the style of it kinda reminds me of Serengeti in Bishop.
By Zane Dordai
Aug 2, 2012

Though I never really fell in love with Ute Valley, this problem is super classic. It felt like very solid V5 from what I know.

Beta spoiler alert: I used the chick, power crimp out right for my right hand to perch on a far, high, and good right foot which freed my right hand to grab the good sidepull pinch. Felt 5 to me that way. The first move, though very big, just takes some dialing in if you have trouble on big moves.