Climb the open-book corner before traversing right underneath the roof on heucos, to the anchor up and right. The corner is pretty awkward and we found it to be rather dirty because it doesn't seem to get done as much.
An enjoyable climb but not as classic as the other pure splitters at the base of the Cerberus Gendarme.
Right of Intruder is the Aton/Allison/Stern route, in the more jumbled mess of sandstone. Right of that is a clean looking open-book corner capped by a roof. That's Flip of a Coin; it's maybe 75 feet right of Intruder.
A selection of cams with nothing bigger than a gold Camalot (I think).
From: SL UT
Nov 10, 2008
This climb is fun, and not as hard as it looks. It is more of a flare than an open book- at least until you get to the top and the flare opens up. Once you get in the flare, you can chimney with knee-bars all the way up to the short lieback at the top. It was dirty, mouse shitty and doesn't seem to get done often. We cleaned it up. My friend Josh added another bolt at the top of the corner under the roof- so there is no need to traverse on huecos out above and right to the original anchor. The original anchor may have been used to access the seperate crack system above Flip of a Coin, but it seemed so illogical for the first pitch of this route to end out there. Hopefully more people will climb this route now. Fingers to hands size gear with extras in the tight hands and off-fingers sizes.