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Forgotten Wall, Control Tower & Up The Creek Wall
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Flight Stimulator 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: JSt,EFR,'07
New Route: Yes
Season: Winter, Spring, Fall
Page Views: 496
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Dec 19, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Doug Cornick turns the roof.

Description 

Getting to the stance to clip the bolt right of the roof is the trick to this climb. Good pro and easier climbing above.


Location 

At the left edge of the south face of the Control Tower. Bolts lead to a roof that leads to a gear protected crack/corner above.


Protection 

Bolts, standard light rack.



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By jbak
Dec 19, 2007

2 stars easy. Kind of reminds me of the Rupley routes. Interesting yet confusing crux followed by fun climbing with good easy-to-get gear.

By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Jan 12, 2008

I'd recommend changing the route type field to "trad,sport" to indicate it's a MIXED route. I quickly looked at the route type description which said "sport" and spaced out on the rest of the detail further down. Then I ended up above the roof with just a few smaller Aliens I had left over on my harness from a previous climb.

There was a bail biner on the last bolt so someone else had made the same mistake as well. It's amazing the imaginary bolts you'll convince yourself you're seeing once you think it's a sport route.

By "Canada" Eric Ruljancich
From: Tucson, AZ / Vancouver, BC
Jan 21, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Strange, awkward moves needed to get under the roof. Pulling the roof is fun. Rock is very suspect, blew off baseball sized chunk.

By jbak
Jan 29, 2008

The roof moves are only awkward if you do them wrong (which I also did on first try). But done correctly it's a nice crux.

By David Arthur Sampson
Nov 9, 2012

Gosh, I think this is the climb I did with Catherine on the Control Tower. Fun climb!