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Flight of the Swallows 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Lyle Dean, Kip Simmons 1974
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 351
Submitted By: Derek DeBruin on May 8, 2011

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P2: From the first pitch belay of "Cloudy Day," pull the roof and step right. Traverse on this ledge all the way to its terminus on the right end of the wall. Build a belay in small horizontals. (50 feet)

P3: From the belay, trend up and back left a bit to a right-facing flake. (This flake is about 5 feet right of the flake on P2 of "Cloudy Day.") Edge up to a small overlap and place a nut or small cam in the vertical slot just over the roof. Pull the overlap on positive holds which become jugs. Optional belay, or continue to the top, right of a small dead tree and up a vegetated ramp. (90 feet)

Descent: Same as for "Cloudy Day."

Note: Not sure if this is a true FA. Please correct if not. When we climbed it, there was no chalk, no obvious gardening, no fixed gear, and tons of lichen.


Variation to the second pitch of "Cloudy Day." Description starts from the P1 belay of "Cloudy Day."

Note: "Flight of the Swallows" and "Tornado on your Birthday" make for great cragging in the sky. Climb "Cloudy Day" and rap back down one pitch to the ledge to fire off the second pitches of "Swallows" and "Tornado".


TCUs/small cams nice for the P2 belay. Micro cams nice for the opening sequence to the small roof.

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By Lyle Dean
Dec 2, 2014

This sounds like the description of a climb called Coming Attractions. This climb has its own first pitch from the ground up to Cloudy Day ledge about 30 feet right of the Cloudy Day start. The overhanging start is excellent climbing on big holds but may not protect so well. First climbed in about 1974 by Kip Simmons and Lyle.
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