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Flight of the Challenger 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
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Page Views: 1,623
Submitted By: David Trippett on Aug 29, 2008

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Description 

One of the more classic trad routes in Squamish and not to be missed by those climbing at the grade. Very atypical for Squamish in its steepness.

Seen from back a bit, The Challenger is the obvious rising crackline that begins down low in the overhang and rises up to the right into the crack/flare at the right-most end of the Pet Wall. Aesthetic and unmistakable.

The Challenger can be broken into two distinct sections, first a steep, juggy section, reminiscent of a sport climb without any bolts. The second section requires a more technical approach in the shallow flare above the overhang. A couple more big moves near the top deliver a final sting in the tail.

Start from a sharp boulder and pull onto the very steep wall on good sidepulls to a jug. Clip the old pin and power through some big moves on jams and slopey rails to a big flake and a decent rest. Another big move from the flake gets you established below the lip on a jug. Transition into the crack above the lip on powerful, and sometimes painful, fingerlocks.

The crux for many...continue up the shallow flare with a very thin seam in the back, an experiment in balance and footwork that eventually eases off into a hand/fist crack and another decent rest....but its not over yet. A couple more big moves from the top of the hand crack see you to the end.


Location 

Far right end of Pet Wall.


Protection 

Cams and Nuts....single set from #3 Camalot to .5 (possible to place #4 as well) and a selection of small cams. Small-Med Stoppers. 6 slings/draws. Fixed 'biners on the chains. Those not on-sighting are encouraged to scope the gear, which is not always obvious (in the overhang anyway).



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By MorganH
May 2, 2014
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

I think the pin is gone gone gone. Awesome climb.