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The Barkeater Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
ASPCA T 
Bachelors and Bowery Bums T 
Because Dogs Can (P1) T 
Big Bertha T 
Eat Yourself a Pie T,TR 
Finger It Out T 
Flexi Flyer T 
Fun City T 
Fun Country T 
Good Dough T,TR 
Lick It Up T 
Mr. Clean T 
Mr. Dirty T 
Overdog T 
Rule of the Bone T 
Yakapodu T 

Flexi Flyer 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
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Page Views: 283
Submitted By: Greg Kuchyt on Jul 5, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: Flexi-Flyer corner at right, Radio Flier var. bein...

Description 

From the ground, the line is unlikely but as you gain progress on the route, it all comes together nicely for an "engaging" line.

Gain the short, shallow, left-facing corner (crux) and follow the corner/crack to its end. Traverse left briefly to a bolt (buttonhead, 5/16"?) and follow features up to gain a chicken head and protection. Trend up and rightish past incuts, hollow flakes (questionable RPs) and a .75ish" slot to a tricky exit move to the slabby ledge and the fixed anchor. Alternatively, exit on to the slabby ledge by heading up and slightly left from the chicken head past hollow flakes.

Radio Flier Variation Start (5.11b PG): Start approximately 5 feet to the left of the left-facing corner and make bouldery moves to gain the finger crack (micro cam, tricky, crucial placement) and make hard moves right to a bolt up to a stance. Crank one more reachy move on fairly good holds (cutting it close to a ground fall, can protect in the Flexi Flier corner with a long sling) to join the original line at the buttonhead bolt

Location 

Start (Original): 20-25' climber's right of Mr. Clean at a short, shallow left-facing corner.
Start (Radio Flier Var.): ~5 ft to the left of the standard start.
Descent: Rap from fixed bolted anchor

Protection 

Two protection bolts, light rack including RPs and cams from micro to .75 C4 size, fixed bolt anchor


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By Luc
Administrator
From: Montreal
Jun 23, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

Seriously rethink leading this unless you're a solid 5.10 leader, the bolt is a 20? year old buttonhead and apart for a the left facing corner and a couple horizontals, the rest is using hollow flakes...

on TR, I attempted the wet left facing corner, I ended up going up the face to its left, heading straight up under the two bolts, makes for a sweet 5.10b/c