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Flex Capacitor 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jeremy Frimer, C. Mortenson, 2011
Season: W Facing
Page Views: 626
Submitted By: Andy Laakmann on Aug 11, 2012

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Description 

Fun new addition to the Grand Wall Base area.

P1 tackles a typical Squamish finger crack corner. The bottom was quite wet, even after a dry spell... but it was easy enough to pull through on a piece of gear to bypass the wet spot. End at a bolted anchor above the alcove.

P2 The business. Work into the arch and place your #4 in the first wide pod. Good feet keep appearing, and when they start to vanish the crack gets good in the corner. Good gear throughout. The crux is probably the last 15 feet, and the two bolts take the edge off.

Clip the anchor and have your partner lower you to the anchor 60' below (about the same height as your belayer)... much better stance there!

Topo available here: jeremyfrimer.com/Climbing_Rout...

Location 

Head climber's right from the base of Exasperator up the short hill. At the top of the hill look for a right facing corner that leads to a beautiful arch. Can't miss it.

Protection 

Double rack small nuts to #3 camalot plus one #4 camalot.


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By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Aug 14, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Great fun. I found the first pitch pumpy for the grade, but that's probably because my slab technique is abysmal. (There's no slab sections but the feet often rely on friction for both pitches.) P1 was wet after three days of dry. The locks during the wet section are bomber though, so just do it.

Second pitch tremendous fun, quite different in character from other 5.10 Grand Wall Base climbs I've done. Quite burly.
By AJV
Aug 8, 2013

I also found the first pitch stiff. I'd probably call it 10a. The second pitch is awesome and protects extremely well. It is definitely worth bringing your #4, but you could get away without it if you're feeling bold.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Aug 7, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

A great route, deserves more attention. It mostly feels like 10a to me, but sustained undercling laybacks .
By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Sep 14, 2014
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Got on this again yesterday. The first pitch still felt insecure and engaging for the grade, but then I'm not really any better at slabby feet than I was the last time. Bomber protection though, and you're never too far from a fingerlock you could hang your body weight from.

The second pitch has some really amazing climbing: very positive holds, excellent protection and pleasant, continuous movement. Highly recommended if you're in the area and you've already climbed Exasperator.