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Fletchers Bluff
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Sundog 
Sunnyside up 

Fletchers Bluff 


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Administrators: Ladd Raine, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Max Lurie on Sep 8, 2009

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Description 

Further to the north and concealed from the highway bu Big Chick Hill is the more remote expanse of Fletchers Bluff. Although Fletchers offers a range of difficulty and terrain features, it is most known for the Sundog Wall on the far right end of the cliff. Here, honed sport climbers will find their peace with slightly overhanging face climbing on beautiful square holds. Sundog routes are in the 5.10 to 5.12 range. On the opposite end of the cliff and for those with a little less bicep power, is the newly developed Kansas Wall which boasts slightly less than vertical face climbing in the 5.9 to 5.11 range. Easy slabs lead up to looming roofs in the center of the cliff. The aptly named Acrophobia breaches the biggest roof. Most of the climbing st Fletchers is a departure from crystal pinching norm of Clifton.


Getting There 

Continue on Route 9 for eight miles from route 180. Look for a gravel logging road, #09-13-0, on the left. Follow the dominant logging road, passing three intersections for 2.8 miles to a widened pullout on the right. Specifically, at 1.3 miles from Route 9 you will come to the first intersection which is a left fork. Continue straight, slightly right. Another.4 miles a final fork to the right as you near the pullout. Often there is a cairn marking this spot. With the exception of mud season, all roads are drivable in a passenger car.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Fletchers Bluff:
Sunnyside up   5.11a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Sundog   5.12b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet   
Browse More Classics in Fletchers Bluff

Featured Route For Fletchers Bluff

Sunnyside up 5.11a  ME : Clifton Crags : Fletchers Bluff
Great route, it lies on the Sundog wall. It's the second route from the last on the right side. The crimpy crux is within the first two bolts. After that pull a small roof and sustained crimpy climbing follows to the anchors....[more]   Browse More Classics in ME


Comments on Fletchers Bluff Add Comment
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By DCSwish23
From: Maine
Jun 19, 2011

IMPORTANT! You can no longer get to the crag using the fire road given in the description. That road has been blocked off with large rocks.

NEW DIRECTIONS: Take Chick Hill Road (On the left after parks pond and before Chick Hill). When Chick Hill Road (the pavement) curves to the right, take the dirt road on the left. Take the next road on the right (Bradbury ____ Road I believe). From here follow the main road for several miles of, currently washed out, dirt roads. Eventually there will be a spot where the road forks and both look to be well traveled, take the right. Follow this to a pullout on the right with a steep dirt bank, probably has 4wheeler tracks on it and a small fire pit in the pullout. The trail is across the road, but is poorly marked but distinguishable.
Use caution when driving on the dirt roads, lots of the potholes aren't too bad, but at least one spot has a washout all the way down to the stream below and several spots have bad potholes. I would strongly recommend high clearance.