Friends over things, outside over inside. Will you go out with us? #OptOutside — Join Us Outside
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Holderness Corner
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Flesh For Lulu S 
Holderness Arete S 
Holderness Finish T 
Holderness School Corner T 
Hope For Movement S 
White Rhino S 

Flesh For Lulu 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jerry Handren 10/82
Page Views: 15,618
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jan 15, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (114)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Jay Knower making it look easy on Flesh for Lulu (...

Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>


Such a perfect piece of rock. The kind of route that you walk up to and just have to climb.

Starting with low-angle climbing typical of the easier Meadows climbs, you overcome a bulge at no harder than 5.10 gaining a ledge. Rest up then embark upon the cruxy second half of the route taking the path of least resistance up the slightly overhanging orangeish rock. From the rest ledge, move up and right to a bolt a super crimpy crux will test your fingers as you start, but the true crux for most lies at the end. After 5.11ish climbing past crimps and jugs, you clip the last bolt and traverse right. A few crimpy, pumpy holds guard a hidden jug which marks the end of your struggle and the beginning of your celebration. You have climbed one of THE classic 5.12s at Rumney.

This route was originally done with only 2 bolts, when the guide book was published it had 9 and now there are eleven. Don't come up short on draws or it will be scary at the top.


Flesh for Lulu is the first wall you come to on the main Meadows trail coming from the big parking lot. Can't miss it.


11 bolts to quick clips.

Photos of Flesh For Lulu Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The finishing crimps loom above as Jay Knower walk...
The finishing crimps loom above as Jay Knower walk...
Rock Climbing Photo: patrick crusing on flesh
patrick crusing on flesh
Rock Climbing Photo: Rebecca Lambert spacing out at the start of Flesh.
Rebecca Lambert spacing out at the start of Flesh.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jared grippin' and crimpin' on Flesh for Lulu
Jared grippin' and crimpin' on Flesh for Lulu
Rock Climbing Photo: Failing to gain the 11th bolt after several tries....
Failing to gain the 11th bolt after several tries....
Rock Climbing Photo: Looks like Ludovic is laying on a glacier... well ...
Looks like Ludovic is laying on a glacier... well ...
Rock Climbing Photo: What a nice wall!!! Ludovic Maire climbing.
What a nice wall!!! Ludovic Maire climbing.
Rock Climbing Photo: Alexa Crimping hard through the thin first crux
Alexa Crimping hard through the thin first crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Adam making a high clip.
Adam making a high clip.
Rock Climbing Photo: Rebecca Lambert sending
Rebecca Lambert sending
Rock Climbing Photo: Rebecca Lambert sending flesh
Rebecca Lambert sending flesh
Rock Climbing Photo: Erik high on the route.
Erik high on the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Erik clipping.
Erik clipping.
Rock Climbing Photo: Erik having fun.
Erik having fun.
Rock Climbing Photo: cruxin' it
cruxin' it

Comments on Flesh For Lulu Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 13, 2016
By Victor McConnell
Sep 22, 2007

Great route. Some history: Jerry Handren never wanted this route to be retro-bolted. He placed the two bolts on rappel pre-sport climbing era. With no top-rope rehearsal, he sent the thing after 4 days of effort and some serious fear.

The bolts were chopped by Ken Nichols when he came and chopped all of Rumney's bolts. Then the route was retro-bolted, though Jerry thought it should have remained as a mental/physical testpiece.

According to a post Jerry made on supertopo, the original locations of the bolts were as follows: "One just above the ledge, the second could be clipped when you were standing on that little shelf about 2/3 of the way up."
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 22, 2007

Thanks for the history... i always wondered where the 2 bolts were...
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Dec 24, 2008

I haven't finished this or even come close but have been on it, and two bolts must have been scary stuff, that guys had some serious toughness.
By adrenalated
From: Denver, CO
May 25, 2009

This is a great climb. It beat me the F down when I tried it, but it is a great climb.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Aug 4, 2009

I was in rumney today and walked by this route and there was a sign on the base saying the hanger on the 8th bolt had fallen off... just a heads up
By Steve Marcil
Aug 14, 2009

hanger has been fixed.
By twellman
From: Cambridge
Apr 18, 2010

So was the FA done with 2 bolts plus gear, or only 2 bolts on the whole climb?
By M Sprague
From: New England
Apr 18, 2010

plus gear, though not much from what I can remember from leading it many years ago before the lower face had any bolts. I for one am glad this route was retrobolted and not left as an ode to one guys ego. It is a fine route with very nice climbing and would be a complete shame to have it sitting there growing moss.
By Mike C. Robinson
From: Rumney, NH
Jun 30, 2011

I second the motion Mark!
By SeanFoster
Oct 31, 2011
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13

Excellent route. Well graded. I worked very hard to eventually bail from the 10th bolt. Whoever picks up my BD biner, you are welcome. Looking forward to another go when next I visit New Hampshire!
By S. Neoh
Oct 31, 2011

seanandon, in your opinion, where is the PG-13 part? Between the 10th and 11th bolt?
Sorry you had to leave a bail biner.
By alexyang
Oct 27, 2014

Hopped on this thing today; it was really fun. I personally had used some beta that involved throwing to some razor-sharp half pad crimps/side pulls, and it hurt a lot to catch it but if you stick it you're solid. The opening is a fun 5.10, and then a solid rest on the ledge. Afterwards the climb becomes much harder and earns the grade. There's about a V4 crux section after the ledge, then it becomes 5.8 for a little bit, and then the upper/final crux between the 10/11 draws are maybe V5/6? I ended up bailing on the 10th draw after a couple falls. If you have the people and the equipment, from the ledge you can traverse out right to a cool crack climb and set up a TR for what's normally a trad route.
By Jamie Melhuish
Jun 25, 2015


In my opinion, this route has two different options at the crux. From the bolt off the big ledge:

(1) Move up and left of the bolt, using a lot of small crimps and maybe a mono pocket. This is the harder crux, technical with very cool moves.

(2) Move up and right of the bolt, through small crimps and sidepulls/Gaston then making a long reach straight up to the good holds. Fewer moves, less technical, and the long reach can be made by short climbers.

The guy in this pic is doing the (2) version, but skipping a Gaston and going for a very long reach. Notice the chalked up holds to his left, that is crux version (1).

This pic also shows the right hand version (2) crux.

Excellent route!
By MattRat
Oct 30, 2015

Great looking route with plenty of quality holds and moves.


I would not give this route more than 2 or 3 stars. The first crux after the half-way ledge has an overabundance of rubber scum on all the footholds, and enough tick marks to support all of Rumney's crucial holds. In my opinion this is the only thing that makes this route harder than 5.12a.

The "upper-crux" is no harder than V4. The pump factor is the only thing that makes these final moves seem harder than they actually are.

I understand why this is such a popular route... visually appealing, 5.10 climbing for 90% of the route, the easiest approach in all of Rumney, and the coveted 5.12 benchmark stamped next to the route name.

Good luck on the onsight!
By Graham O.
Aug 13, 2016

Very very high quality line! Perfectly sculpted crimps up a slightly overhanging face with a few cruxy sections and massive whipper potential. One of the best at Rumney.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!