Flesh For Lulu 5.12a/b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.12a/b [details] |
| FA: | Jerry Handren 10/82 |
| Submitted By: | lee hansche on Jan 15, 2007 |
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Jay Knower making it look easy on Flesh for Lulu (...
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Description Such a perfect piece of rock. The kind of route that you walk up to and just have to climb.
Starting with low-angle climbing typical of the easier Meadows climbs, you overcome a bulge at no harder than 5.10 gaining a ledge. Rest up then embark upon the cruxy second half of the route taking the path of least resistance up the slightly overhanging orangeish rock. From the rest ledge, move up and right to a bolt a super crimpy crux will test your fingers as you start, but the true crux for most lies at the end. After 5.11ish climbing past crimps and jugs, you clip the last bolt and traverse right. A few crimpy, pumpy holds guard a hidden jug which marks the end of your struggle and the beginning of your celebration. You have climbed one of THE classic 5.12s at Rumney.
This route was originally done with only 2 bolts, when the guide book was published it had 9 and now there are eleven. Don't come up short on draws or it will be scary at the top.
Location Flesh for Lulu is the first wall you come to on the main Meadows trail coming from the big parking lot. Can't miss it.
Protection 11 bolts to quick clips.
The finishing crimps loom above as Jay Knower walk...
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patrick crusing on flesh
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cruxin' it
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Erik having fun.
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Erik clipping.
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Erik high on the route.
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Failing to gain the 11th bolt after several tries....
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Rebecca Lambert spacing out at the start of Flesh.
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Rebecca Lambert sending flesh
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Rebecca Lambert sending
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Adam making a high clip.
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Alexa Crimping hard through the thin first crux
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| Comments on Flesh For Lulu |
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By Victor McConnell
Sep 22, 2007
| Great route. Some history: Jerry Handren never wanted this route to be retro-bolted. He placed the two bolts on rappel pre-sport climbing era. With no top-rope rehearsal, he sent the thing after 4 days of effort and some serious fear.
The bolts were chopped by Ken Nichols when he came and chopped all of Rumney's bolts. Then the route was retro-bolted, though Jerry thought it should have remained as a mental/physical testpiece.
According to a post Jerry made on supertopo, the original locations of the bolts were as follows: "One just above the ledge, the second could be clipped when you were standing on that little shelf about 2/3 of the way up." |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 22, 2007
| Thanks for the history... i always wondered where the 2 bolts were... |
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Dec 24, 2008
| I haven't finished this or even come close but have been on it, and two bolts must have been scary stuff, that guys had some serious toughness. |
By Jeff Welch
From: Thornton, CO
May 25, 2009
| This is a great climb. It beat me the F down when I tried it, but it is a great climb. |
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Aug 4, 2009
| I was in rumney today and walked by this route and there was a sign on the base saying the hanger on the 8th bolt had fallen off... just a heads up |
By twellman
Apr 18, 2010
| So was the FA done with 2 bolts plus gear, or only 2 bolts on the whole climb? |
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 18, 2010
| plus gear, though not much from what I can remember from leading it many years ago before the lower face had any bolts. I for one am glad this route was retrobolted and not left as an ode to one guys ego. It is a fine route with very nice climbing and would be a complete shame to have it sitting there growing moss. |
By SeanFoster
Oct 31, 2011
rating: 5.12b PG13
| Excellent route. Well graded. I worked very hard to eventually bail from the 10th bolt. Whoever picks up my BD biner, you are welcome. Looking forward to another go when next I visit New Hampshire! |
By S. Neoh
Oct 31, 2011
| seanandon, in your opinion, where is the PG-13 part? Between the 10th and 11th bolt?
Sorry you had to leave a bail biner. |
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