Flesh for Fantasy 5.11a
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | Gordon Douglas 1987 |
| Submitted By: | Guy H. on Jun 25, 2007 |
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Description Flesh for Fantasy climbs moderate cracks to the base of a bolted headwall. It is easy to approach by rapping to the ledge below the headwall and pulling your rope.
Follow ~4 bolts through thin 5.10 face climbing to an interesting undercling stand up move to a good hold. It is a one move wonder, but worth the effort.
Location This line is directly below the rap line to the right of Carol's Crack
Protection 4 bolts on the headwall, and gear for the lower cracks...
| Comments on Flesh for Fantasy |
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By Ben Folsom
Aug 27, 2007
| The normal way to start this follows easy climbing up and left from below the base then back right to the base of the bolted headwall. I climbed a direct route to the base of the bolted headwall, right up the center of the V feature. It was really quite good. It is probably about 5.10- and has reasonably good gear, probably about PG-13. I thought doing this direct to the bolted face is excellent and the whole thing would deserve three stars. |
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Apr 30, 2013
rating: 5.11a
| +1 for Ben's comment about the bottom. You can skip the left-trending easy "chimney" by climbing bulgy easy terrain then step across the gap to a thin crack that fades out about 8' below the ledge where the bolted face starts. Small nuts and cams up to a .5 protect this start adequately.
The patina is great with one stopped move followed by a bit of thin climbing with bad feet. |
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