|Type:||Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA:||Gordon Douglas 1987|
|Submitted By:||Guy H. on Jun 25, 2007|
|Comments on Flesh for Fantasy||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Ben Folsom
Aug 27, 2007
|The normal way to start this follows easy climbing up and left from below the base then back right to the base of the bolted headwall. I climbed a direct route to the base of the bolted headwall, right up the center of the V feature. It was really quite good. It is probably about 5.10- and has reasonably good gear, probably about PG-13. I thought doing this direct to the bolted face is excellent and the whole thing would deserve three stars.|
From: Small Lake, UT
Apr 30, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
+1 for Ben's comment about the bottom. You can skip the left-trending easy "chimney" by climbing bulgy easy terrain then step across the gap to a thin crack that fades out about 8' below the ledge where the bolted face starts. Small nuts and cams up to a .5 protect this start adequately.
The patina is great with one stopped move followed by a bit of thin climbing with bad feet.