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 ADVANCED
Decadent Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abortions on Parade 
Adolescent Homosexual 
Bestiality 
Carol's Crack 
Dimples and Tits 
Divine Decadence 
Dykes on Harleys 
FDC 
Flesh for Fantasy 
Impotence 
Life Without Sex 
McKenzie's Crack 
Nipples and Clits 
Pluton Playground 
Preteen Sex 
Sexual Dysfunction 
Testosterone Test 
Too Much Testosterone 
Twilight 

Flesh for Fantasy 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Gordon Douglas 1987
Page Views: 489
Submitted By: Guy H. on Jun 25, 2007
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Description 

Flesh for Fantasy climbs moderate cracks to the base of a bolted headwall. It is easy to approach by rapping to the ledge below the headwall and pulling your rope.

Follow ~4 bolts through thin 5.10 face climbing to an interesting undercling stand up move to a good hold. It is a one move wonder, but worth the effort.


Location 

This line is directly below the rap line to the right of Carol's Crack


Protection 

4 bolts on the headwall, and gear for the lower cracks...



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By Ben Folsom
Aug 27, 2007

The normal way to start this follows easy climbing up and left from below the base then back right to the base of the bolted headwall. I climbed a direct route to the base of the bolted headwall, right up the center of the V feature. It was really quite good. It is probably about 5.10- and has reasonably good gear, probably about PG-13. I thought doing this direct to the bolted face is excellent and the whole thing would deserve three stars.

By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Apr 30, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

+1 for Ben's comment about the bottom. You can skip the left-trending easy "chimney" by climbing bulgy easy terrain then step across the gap to a thin crack that fades out about 8' below the ledge where the bolted face starts. Small nuts and cams up to a .5 protect this start adequately.
The patina is great with one stopped move followed by a bit of thin climbing with bad feet.