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Below The Old New Place
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L to R R to L Alpha
Adam Ant (aka Nuclear Ant Farm) 
Color of My Potion 
Fat Boys Don't Fly 
Flesh-Eating Gnats 
Got a Nightstick, Got a Gun, Got Time on My Hands 
Greg Shredder 
I Dogged Your Wife and She is a Doofus 
Inflight Movie 
Instant Dogma 
L Dopa 
Little Shop Of Horrors 
Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack) 
Manic Nirvana 
Monsterpiece Theatre 
Oscar de La Cholla 
Pathogenic Cysts 
Polyester Terror 
Putterman Cracks 
Ralph's Dilemma 
Ralph's Leisure Suit 
Ralph's Revenge 
Right Twin Crack (aka Lost Nerve) 
Route 1 
Route 22 
Route 24 
Route 25 
Route 26 
Route 27 
Route 31 
Route 32 
Sardonic Smile 
Scandanavian Airlines 
Strong Urge to Fly 
Wailing Banshees 

Flesh-Eating Gnats 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Brian Riepe, Tom MacFarlane, 5/89
Page Views: 1,267
Submitted By: George Perkins on Jun 22, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Really nice, sustained arete climbing.


One of the original sport climbs to go in at White Rock, "Gnats" climbs an amazing arete with possible moves on either side using pockets and small ledges. At the beginning, bypass the undercut roof to the left and reach around the arete to the right to clip the out-of-sight 1st bolt. It's a bit intimidating to get to the 2nd bolt but easier than it looks. As you move up farther, look for pockets on both sides of the arete and some stances on the arete itself. Up high, the rock becomes less featured and steeper, with a few bigger moves needed to get through the crux at the end.

Why's it called Flesh-Eating Gnats ?? Climb here in late summer evenings... you'll see.


Prominent arete between the two most obvious dihedrals (Ralph's Dilemma and Revenge).

Route 10 in Monomaniac's beta photo


5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos of Flesh-Eating Gnats Slideshow Add Photo
Jason Halladay moving into the crux sequence of Flesh Eating Gnats.
Jason Halladay moving into the crux sequence of Fl...
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By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 2, 2009
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a

The bolt spacing between bolts 1 and 2 on this line is pretty spacious and could possibly result in a not-so-fun fall. That said, I've never seen anyone fall in that area. We did discover a .3 camalot fits pretty decently in a horizontal between B1 and B2 but didn't fully load test it. Maybe just enough psychological pro to help the leader move up.

By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Dec 4, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

Having climbed "Flesh-Eating Gnats" and "Wailing Banshees" about the same amount of times now, I still think Gnats is the harder route. With Banshees, if you can hold on to jugs for 40 feet and have enough gas left in the tank to fire the crimpy exit sequence (which isn't *that* hard), the route is all yours. Gnats has some genuine hard cranks off smallish holds, moves that are relatively difficult, even without the pump-factor (which still exists, at least for me).

But no one else I've talked to thinks Gnats is harder, so I'll shut up now.

By Jason Young
May 2, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a PG13

In addition to the left side start, I have done this route by approaching the first bolt from the right side and bouldering up and left to the second bolt. This has fun moves but is f'n scary. Either way it could use another bolt, or perhaps modified bolt placements.

I think this route is a bit harder than "Wailing Banshees" as well.