Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
The Bihedral (Upper Tier)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Fly in the Ointment T,S 
Acid Crack T 
Acid Rock T 
AHR S 
Bihedral T 
Bihedral Arete T,S 
Blood Diamond S 
Case of the Fags T 
Crack Variation T 
Dan's Line S 
Daydreaming T 
Diamonds and Rust S 
Dihedral Variation T,S 
Edge of Reality S 
Fat Tuesday T,S 
Flags of Our Fathers T,S 
Flesh Eating Flies S 
Group Therapy S 
Hesitantly Decisive T 
Heterohedral T 
High Hard One S 
Hold The Line S 
It's Time For Change T,S 
Just Putin Around T 
Left-Handed Tool T,S 
Night Moves T,S 
Oh Boy T,S 
Pariah S 
Puff Daddy S 
Rhodian Shores S 
Rhodian, Naturally T,TR 
Sands of Iwo Jima S 
Sun Spot T,S 
Thumb Tack T 
Tool King T,S 
Trick or Treat T,S 
Where's Ray? S 

Flesh Eating Flies 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Vaino Kodas, Bob D'Antonio, 2002
Page Views: 1,426
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Jun 12, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Approach to Flesh-Eating Flies.

Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route climbs an arete and face located on the far right side of the headwall of the Bihedral. The best approach is to take the Happy Hour Crag trail to its end, and then traverse the hillside to the left. Be very careful here, as the Riviera climbing area is below.

Description from vainokodas.com/climbing/corout... used with permission.

Protection 

6 bolts to a two-bolt anchor.


Comments on Flesh Eating Flies Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 29, 2016
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

The single star I give this route is for movement and for what this roue might be if it cleans up. Frankly, I had a no-star experience on it.

The movement on a good route should be the product of limited holds, not forced by the fear that other existing holds will shed out from under you. Furthermore, the 'excitement' of a route should be more about the ability to do the moves, not the gambling aspect of each move, wondering if, or not, the holds you did settle on will crumble or not.

My experience on the routes was first standing at the bottom watching my partner closely as the grit and grains come down from the route on each move, then climbing it, brushing each hold as I went, producing the same. The grainy rock from each foot hold stuck under foot as I stepped off of the holds, putting more grit under foot one the next hold prior to that hold even shedding.

We cleaned this route to some degree, using our hands. Perhaps a concerted effort with a solid brush would clean this up much more, and perhaps all that is under that grit is more grit, and unless it sees regular traffic, it will never really be clean. Meanwhile, if I could give something 1/2 star, I'd have chosen that option. It does have potential, but for my ascent, it felt like a bomb.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!