|Left of the Roof
This route is an incredible and long moderate route, even by quarry standards. The route has two distinct cruxes, one at the bottom and one at the top, separated by sixty or so feet of fun climbing on good holds in stellar position. The climb starts on small holds under a bulge. Traverse right and up, then around the bulge to jugs. Continue over a series of ledges on good holds while the climb edges closer to the left-hand arete. After a nice rest on a small ledge 2/3's the way up, you pull a move up to a large slanting ledge and throw for a jug in the middle. Traverse right under the looming roof and prepare to surmount it up and left. A strenuous sequence here rewards you with the headwall and big holds to the anchors at the top of the cliff.
This is the first route in the Left of the Roof Sector. It's just around the corner from Metro. It starts directly in front of a bench which sits in front of a medium sized boulder. Currently the rating 11b is written on the wall at the bottom of the route.
16 bolts to two-bolt anchor/rap. 70m rope recommended. You can climb this route with a 60m rope, but tie a knot on the belay-end when lowering and be very careful.
Climbers at the Quarry 1-8-12
|By Colin Parker|
From: Idyllwild, CA
Jan 3, 2010
Climbed this route today and loved it. It's clear that this route is still 'cleaning up' since there's still a bit of loose rock up there. If you're here on a weekday and there's nobody else around, try to clean what you can. When this thing is 100% solid I expect it to be very popular. Also, there's a relatively loose block up around the second crux. It's a somewhat vital hold although I'm not sure what would be left if it broke off. Maybe someone could glue it?
From: Riverside, Ca
Oct 17, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
Location states that there is 11b rating written on the route...Few weeks back someone crossed that out and blasted it with chalk and wrote a HUGE 11c on it...so just look for the obvious 11c, but 11b in my opinion...crux move was just as hard as Delirious 11b. Awesome climb