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Flawless Victory 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Dave Graham (onsight)
Page Views: 343
Submitted By: lee hansche on Dec 29, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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BETA PHOTO: This is most of the line. it cuts off the start an...

Description 

Stick clip a bolt or two.
Climb up in to the small left facing corner. Layback, kneebar and crimp your way up to gain the obvious ledge with your hands. Make a clip from a good hold and hand traverse right. Mantel to a comfortable stance. Make your clips and ponder the crux section.
I found the path of least resistance to be moving right to surmount a slab via some tiny edges. The crux is reaching the anchors. balance and say a few prayers while you attempt to levitate up and left to clip the chains.

The placement of the last bolt and the anchor seem weird. I feel like the route would be much more popular if the anchor was a few feet down and to the right. Luckly I don't mind a challenge. I'm up for a brutal slabby crux any day of the week :)

Location 

The right hand route that climbs out of the cave on the far right end of Main Cliff. This is the first area you get to when you hike up from the small parking lot.

Protection 

6 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.


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By Eli Buzzell
From: Rumney
Mar 4, 2015

Is there a distinct crux on this route? I got on it today and the bottom felt pretty hard, but with good beta I was able to do all the moves and get established on the layback/flake.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 5, 2015

I found things to go pretty well until the very top.

If the anchors were a little lower it would be 12a(ish) IMO...

however, as it stands there is either a ridiculously big move or a hard delicate mantle/slab to get to the anchor. I went with the slab option since that's my groove... GOOD LUCK!

(and watch out for falling ice down there this time of year!)
By Eli Buzzell
From: Rumney
Mar 7, 2015

That is a little off putting, but I guess it will have to be a longer term project than I thought. It's easier neighbor to the right is going to go down pretty shortly though. Thanks for the info Lee!
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