Flatiron partner 4/21/16

I'm a North Carolina climber who's got some time in Boulder. The friends I'm staying with will be working tomorrow morning and I want to solo a Flatiron but I made a promise to someone that I won't try it without going up with someone who knows where they're going.

Is it likely that I can just tack on with another party if I just show up at the trailhead? Does anyone want to meet up with me?

A note on conditions: I haven't looked since this morning, but things were still kinda wet when I rode to work. Even if the rock is dry, the approach could be a sticky mess.

I think it unlikely you will happen across anyone at the trailhead that is obviously heading up to solo; and if you did, I would be weary of anyone willing to take you along. I'm not fond of the idea of soloing with someone I've never roped up with. I only say that to suggest that it might be asking a lot.

If you just want to get out and explore, zoom up the Second; its fun, its mellow, and there is no descent. You just hop off the back and onto the trail.

I would bring microspikes for the walk down; its probably slippery on the the trail, but you'll live without them.

If you head to the First by yourself, stick to Bakers Way, rather than the East Face routes. Once you FIND Baker's Way (the overhang with the snow patch under it, right off the switchbacks) the route finding and climbing are predictable (though I don't say easy, since I don't know your style). Bring a rope for the rap; there is likely snow, or at least water, on the downclimb.

Adam,

Just a heads up, based on your recent ticks you might be biting off a little more than you can chew. Stick to the 2nd flatiron and you will probably have just as much fun without the same level of intensity that the downclimb from the 1st entails. (the 1st flatiron downclimb has a section of 5.6 overhang with 200ft exposure.) The downclimb on the 2nd flatiron is a hop to the base of a tree.

Last week I happened upon a chap who had been sitting at the summit for some time. He didn't know the way down, so I showed him where the downclimb was. The "5.10 gym climber" was a bit freaked by the 5.6 overhang just below the rap anchors.

Anyway, hit me up via PM, I might be able to get up there on Friday (not tomorrow).

cheers.
-chris

There's definitely no 5.6 on the downclimb, you may be off route if you hit anything that hard, probably nothing harder than 5.3 or so (I have a hard enough time grading something like that going up, so it's even harder going down). That said, if someone didn't show me the downclimb I don't think I would've believed it was as easy as it is. Looks pretty steep from above. Nowadays I'm more often than not carrying a light rope and harness, as I find I can rap the first and the third faster than downclimbing them. Took me a little while to be comfortable soloing with a rope on though.

Biggest problem with the east face of the first is there's probably 1000 variations, which may or may not lead you into something you're uncomfortable with.

BTW its tradition to take a sharpie with you and write your names on the rocks at the top of the flatiron

Agreed the downclimb on the first doesn't exceed 5.easy on route. The "on-route" part can definitely be tricky for a first time.

The start of the second might also be a bit spicy with ice. I'd look at First flatironette to spy to north ridge first flatiron as a mostly dry option.

Tacking on with another party is a bit tough as it's a zoo. If I thought conditions were worth driving up, I'd meet you, but I kinda think they're pretty sloppy. Try joining/posting here: facebook.com/groups/1436991…

To the OP:

The initial downclimb off the First is rated Class 4 by Roach. It's a jug haul - super fun. I could see the last 10 feet of the downclimb being thoughtful for someone going down blind. The old tree has, for some time, been gone - which was utilized for the downclimb.

OP again:
The end of the Freeway route is not at the top of the Second. To get to the trail from that route is very easy. Getting off the top of the Second is, IMHO, a bit harder than getting off the First, even though it is much quicker. Another route (West Face, Second) that may be best to upclimb and see all the footholds you cannot see when downclimbing (easily)

There's usually a pretty steady group of people going up Freeway, on any sunny day. The route is, "Wherever", but the amount of easy places to bail isn't as great as you may be lead to believe, reading route summaries. I think the easiest way would just to keep climbing up (or down...)

Is the situation of wet rock/climbing something ever raised in the Flatirons? Not to troll, or start a flame war, just generally curious.

Thanks all for the tips. I'm doing the second tomorrow morning and saving the first for when my buddy can join.

I don't update my ticks on MP (I like keeping a personal spreadsheet better). I appreciate the concern, Chris. I guess those ticks come in handy for posts like this and finding partners.

Good choice for first time solo Adam, almost a better choice to wait for #1. The wet weather from the weekend will make it a mess.

Enjoy yourself