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Redgarden - Tower One
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Three Old Farts Young at Heart 
To RP or not to Be 
Untouchables, The 
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Flashdance 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c R

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: G. Miller, L. Hill, 2009
Season: Faces S/SW
Page Views: 351
Submitted By: Tony B on Mar 19, 2010
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  • Description 

    Some very good climbing, with occasional gear. Luckily the rock is solid and the holds, for the most part, are positive.

    Start up a narrow strip of rock into the corner as for Upper Grand Giraffe and climb a crack for 5 or 6 meters until it is possible to traverse up and right about 20 feet out, until you are in a line of good pockets and edges directly below the right-hand edge of the dark red alcove below... that is to say, below the belay of Grand Giraffe.

    Climb directly upward on climbing slightly easier than, but reminiscent of 'Alice In Bucketland' or 'Body Tremors.' Wander slightly for gear and holds as necessary to keep the grade low and fall potential in control. The route will still be 'R' if you do this, but perhaps it spares the 'X' grade.

    You can either stop and use gear or supplement the single-bolt belay, or continue on to the 6th-pitch variation of Grand Giraffe, which goes out slightly right onto an arete through the bulge above, then straight up to the top of the wall. This is more 5.6-5.7, 'R' climbing.

    A 70m rope will get you there, and to the belay tree on top if you have enough gear and slings.


    Location 

    This route starts as for the upper half of Grand Giraffe and diverges to an independent line after 20 feet.


    Protection 

    A light rack to a #3 Camalot. Perhaps a few extra large cams will go into huecos if you take a few to spare.



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