||Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]|
|FA: ||FA: Rick Reese, Dick Ream, Lloyd Anderson, 1963 FFA: George Lowe, Paul Andersen, 1966|
|Page Views: ||1,577|
|Submitted By: ||Nathan Fisher on Aug 8, 2005|
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Moving up to the next pin scar on Flashdance. App...
This is the thin seam that starts below and to the right of Pentapitch's final pitch. The moves to the crack are fine. The moves through the 2nd pin are very thin, and the face doesn't help that much. The tenuos nature of the moves doesn't lend oneself to dallying around and placing gear. Once to the 2nd pin, the route eases to a 5.9/5.8 difficulty with nice finger cracks and flaky rock. If climbed more it would be a better upper half.
There are 2 old pins on the route, one that protects the crux. The anchor consists of "bad" slings around a tree. To TR it throw another sling around the tree as a directional and use Pentapitch's anchors. The gear through the thin section is just that...thin. I mocked it up, and could find nothing before the 2nd pin that would satisfy my need for gear. Above the 2nd pin, small to medium gear would work.
In the heat of battle with the almighty crux...oh,...
Jun 10, 2007
Recent historical revelation: First free ascent: George Lowe & Paul Anderson, 1966
|By Ryan Brough|
From: Arvada, Colorado
Jul 1, 2007
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Protection would be adequate with some RPs, but you would have to place gear at your waist, otherwise there would be no room for your fingertips in those tiny pin scars. If the top were more like the crux section, I would project this climb in a heartbeat.
|By David Shiembob|
From: slc, ut
Aug 28, 2007
I somehow flashed this on TR today, so thoughts of a lead obviously enter my head... What's the verdict on the first pin? Has anybody fallen on it? Looks like it might be able to be backed up with a small piece in the pin scar below it, but that seems like the last reasonable placement through the crux sequence. There is a stance a little higher maybe I could place from. There are only a few really shitty pin scars on this thing, you're not that far above the pin when you're most likely to blow it...
Aug 29, 2007
00 tcu, bad brassies, maybe those tiny friends. the crux is placing them. I haven't been able to feel good about that pin. can you imagine placing pins on it like George did? during the onsite fa? in boots?
|By Allen Sanderson|
Sep 21, 2007
More history - this actually the original finish to Pentapitch. So the FA using aid should be Rick Reese, Dick Ream, Lloyd Anderson, 1963, with the FFA George Lowe & Paul Andersen, 1966. The pins were probably placed by Reese. (Source Rick Reese).
|By Shaun Greene|
Jun 10, 2008
If you like the green a you will love this climb. This is the green a on steroids. The climb stays fun the entire way and the upper crack eases up considerably. This climb definately favors those climbers with small fingers.
From: SL UT
Sep 28, 2008
I fell at the end of the thin crack right before it eases up and ripped 4 micro nuts and thankfully, the first pin caught and held. The fall also pulled out the two micro nuts I had placed below the pin. That left me with the old angle, and one cam where I left the pentapitch crack and climbed right onto the slab. I give this thing R fo' show'. Lady fingers would help, and there is no reliable gear through the 10 feet of the crux. Even when I fell and tried to fiddle in gear on the hang, it was marginal at best- and I had HB offsets, microcams, and metolius astronuts.
Aug 7, 2009
super good line. purple c3 works after traverse right. then a small bd micro nut. piton's solid, works after small off-set ripped. love watching slow motion, gear ripping falls. keep your shit straight.
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Jun 4, 2014
Just now seeing bsmoot's comment about the FFA. Wow. Having freed the route, and considering the date, had it been anyone else but George, I'd be super skeptical. But when someone calls Crack of Doom "5.9 with a boulder start" you know they're in a league of their own!