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YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Bob Gaines & Tommy Romero, August 1995
Page Views: 25
Submitted By: andre kovacs on Jul 17, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Climb halfway up the first pitch of Open Book to a obvious right facing arch 10a, which curves up and right. From here move up and right onto the face which share the belay for ZigZag and Mechanic's Route. At the start of the second pitch mantle an overhanging block on the left to a thin corner 10d, which leads to face climbing past 3 bolts up to the last belay of Open Book.


Between Open Book and ZigZag


Lots of thin to four inch.

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By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
Oct 29, 2011

Easier and not as long as The Souvenir which was put up by the same person at the same time. Well protected. I never found the RP placement, instead using small cams.
By Tradoholic
Jan 15, 2013

Got on the bolted section while doing Zig-Zag, ultra thin crimps. From the Mechanics Route belay there's an obvious horn on the left that leads to the bolts.
By Tradoholic
Jul 4, 2015

Hmmmm, seemed not very protectable at the start of the layback arch. I went up about 15ft then traversed across from Open Book skipping the wide part of the layback, seemed like a good call. Then did a wild stemming move to traverse up into Mechanics.

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