Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Menses Prow
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Sheep in Wolf's Clothing 
Abscessed Words to Climb 
After Dark 
Armies Of Metaphors 
B.O.S.S. Method, The 
Back for More 
Baroque Period, The 
Bat Crack 
Big Chill, The 
Chiba Chiba 
Cosmic Thing 
Dealin' Crack 
Dumb Waiter 
Fever 
First Blood 
First Strike 
Flashback To Acid Beach 
Graceland 
Jumbo Pumping Love 
Krakatoa 
Lamontís Period  
Lick My Love Pump aka Love Pump 
Light Days 
Liquid Affair 
Lunch at the Y 
Menses 
Metaphysical Fictions 
My What a Big Bulge 
No Passion for Fashion 
Original Route 
Period Epic 
Period Piece 
Pig Dictionary 
Prima Nocta  
Pueblo Gringos 
Red Dog 
Scratch and Claw 
Shelf's Worst Route 
Slender Fungus 
Smart Server 
Smokin' Crack 
Stratabulge 
Sudden Impact 
Sundogs 
Thirteen Engines 
True to Tradition/Tucker's Faith 
Turbo Charged, Inter-Cooled Meat Machine 
Weed n' Feed 
Unsorted Routes:

Flashback To Acid Beach 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Brian Mullin
Page Views: 1,017
Submitted By: William Prehm on Jan 1, 2001
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Kreighton Bieger feeling the acid.

Description 

This the the far left climb on the face to the left of the California Ethics Pinnacle. Excellent moves with a mono pocket hold as the crux. A little tricky moving to the bolts as well.


Protection 

4 bolts to anchor.



Comments on Flashback To Acid Beach Add Comment
Show which comments
By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn
Apr 10, 2002

I did this as a "Warm-up" and I remember hollering back down "I can't believe I'm pulling mono's on a 10!" Fun route but a little height-dependent.

By tim naylor
Mar 18, 2004

Good route except for the [weird] clips

By Larry Shaw
Sep 9, 2004
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Nice route but the last move to the anchor felt harder for me.

By Scott Edwards
Dec 22, 2005

Gear Alert

The right cold shut at the anchor is a great example of why you don't TR directly off anchors. Ropes have worn at least half-way through, and it WILL fail soon! I will replace with a new hanger next time I'm on the route. But, if that doesn't happen any time soon...be warned.

By ac
Dec 23, 2005

Why do you say that this is [due] to toproping? Lowering off after leading is the likely culprit. For future equippers, steel rings are the only way to go.

By Matt Richardson
Administrator
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 3, 2007
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

I don't know...given that I have seen large parties TR'ing off of the anchors, I would suspect that this might have a greater impact. However, it does seem to be a majority who don't seem to see a problem with lowering off of the anchors.

By Curt Nelson
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 14, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Cool little route with only a few harder moves at the top.