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BETA PHOTO: We started by the huge flake, but feel free to tak...
A grassy/slabby initial pitch or two leads to three or so pitches of nice 5.8/9 climbing.
P1 and P2: An easy Simo if you choose to. Trend left up on grassy flakes and slabs to a big slopey ledge left of the dihedral, a couple moves shy of the obvious roof.
P3 (crux 5.9): Move up and through the roof, passing a welcomed (old) bolt. A few steep moves turn into a bulgey crack (we took the right one), to a belay ledge just below a steep corner, that can take bigger gear if you traverse slightly right.
P4 and P5 (5.8): Can combine with a 70m. Climb the good corner, with one kind of weird offwidthey, tight move about midway. Belay on 4th class terrain above, scramble to the ridge. This will stretch a 70m if you choose to combine them.
Descend left, back to clear lake, or go ahead and climb the North Face, since you are already at the start!
From Clear Lake, look for the huge arches on the leftmost side of haystack, aim for a grassy ledge at the base of the wall, more or less directly under the highest spot on the arch. Start near a big ol' flake well right of the corner.
Standard Winds rack, small cams seem to be helpful, a few longer slings of course.
Robert on Flash Flood Haystack Mtn (1983)
By Mike Marmar
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 1, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fun route aside from the first two pitches of choss. Crux pitch is solid 5.9. I took the left of the two cracks over the roof, seemed to be the more direct line.
I would not recommend simul-ing the first two pitches. They are dirty and loose, and I found a few 5.8ish moves. Also, the bolt at the crux is a very old 1/4"er with a leeper hanger sticking out a good inch. Clip it for kicks, but careful you don't pull it out while clipping.