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Kimberly M. trying to figure out the 5.11 crux on ...
On the right side of Cake Wall, a right facing wall capped off with an overhang. Climb through the overhang. A critical hold has been chipped off and is more difficult then the original 5.11 rating.
From: Matawan, NJ
Aug 18, 2009
Part of the crux hold has broken off from what I've noticed. It's just over the lip on the far right. New move to pull the crux is still a 5.11 move though.
By Conor Mark
Aug 9, 2015
I led this onsite in 09 because it looked like there was gear above the lip, and had forgotten the guide book. But, I traversed the horizontal to the left, and pulled the roof on the left where it comes to a point. There's no gear above the roof (at least I didn't see any at the time, I really had my blinders on). Even though you get a bomber #3 or #4 under the roof, with the sling it needs you'd hit the low angle corner below even before you pull the roof. Definitely X rated.
It was a while ago, and I was pretty scared, but doing the left variation felt 10+.