This difficult line is located approximately 50 feet left of Ghost Dance. Once you see it, the name will immediately make sense. While it appears as though this may not be a good one to lead, I assure you that it does take descent pro. The downside is that you need to hang out in some pretty strenuous stances to work the gear in just right. Also, if you place gear above you, you will definitely screw yourself in a major way. This climb is a bottomed-out flare with a distinct crux in the middle. I will give you one tip...believe in your right foot. I have climbed hard .11s at Vedauwoo that were significantly easier than this climb.
Small Stoppers and RPs, maybe Screamers, cams #00 TCU to #0.75 Camalots. Don't worry about doubles. Two-bolt anchor at the top.
|By Justin Edl|
May 8, 2006
This route is GREAT practice for both flared hand jamming and how to use your feet in a flared crack. If you struggle with flared cracks, go do this route. You can toprope it easily by scrambling around to the left. Knowing how to do flared jams is a prerequisite for many of the harder routes at Vedauwoo.
|By Brian Scoggins|
From: Eugene, OR
Jul 18, 2007
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c
This thing is deceptive from the ground. The pro is tiny and difficult to fish in, and the jams are nowhere near as good as they look from a distance. Stout flared jams all the way.
|By Jason Haas|
From: Broomfield, CO
Aug 27, 2007
Techy jams with techy gear placements. I found nuts worked best. Also, the route is about 35-40ft long rather than 60.
From: Farmington, nc
Nov 8, 2010
Best 11 at the Woo by far! Balance, jam, flare-jam and finger-lock your way to the top.