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Nautilus
Routes Sorted
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A Little on the Ugly Side T,S 
Air Voyager With Report S 
Automotive Supply House T 
Baalbek T 
Baldwin's Chimney T 
Banana Hammock 
Bat Guano Crack (mistakenly aka B-G Crack) T 
Bat Heaven T,TR 
Blood Sport TR 
Bombay T 
Bombs Away aka B52 T 
Bug Squad T 
Candlestick T 
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Captain Nemo T 
Central Scrutinizer, The T 
Cool Hand Luke T 
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Deception T 
Deep Throat T 
Drunken Redneck Rappellers S 
Dual T 
Easy Jam T 
Ejector-Rejector TR 
Elevator T 
Escalator T 
Etude For The Left Hand TR 
Etude For The Right Hand S 
Failure to Communicate T 
Father 1 T 
Final Cut, The T,S 
Finally T 
Flare Thee Well T 
Flying Buttress T 
Folded, Spindled, and Mutilated T,TR 
Friday the 13th T 
Friday the 13th, Part 2 T 
Ghost Dance T 
Grand Traverse, The T 
Gravity's Rainbow T 
H & H Grunt T 
Hairlip T 
Hamburger Crack T 
Handjacker T 
Harder Than Your Husband T 
Hemoglobin T,TR 
Hesitation Blues T 
Horticulture T 
Humper T 
Hurley-Fowler T 
In The Dark T 
In the Groove T 
Jim Jam T 
Jim Jam Junior T 
Joke T 
Knee Grinder T,TR 
Knothole T 
Left Torpedo Tube T 
Lower Progressive T 
Lower Slot and Upper Slot T 
Lower Slot Left T 
Lower Slot Right T 
Lucky You T 
Max Factor T 
MaxiLash T 
Middle Parallel Space T 
Mother 1 T 
Nemo's Nemesis S 
Nemo's Toad T,TR 
Nitrogen Narcosis T 
Octagon T 
October Light T 
Old Eyeful T 
Outrider S 
Par Four T,TR 
Petite Tarsalation T,TR 
Piton Perch T 
Popcorn Farce T 
Postman, The T,S 
Pretty S 
Republic, The 
Right Parallel Space T 
Right Torpedo Tube T 
Right Winger T 
Sitdown Seam 
Slab Stealer T 
Slat T 
Slick and Superficial T,S 
Slit T 
Slut T,TR 
Soak'em In Cider 
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Step Ladder T 
Stinkzig T 
Straight 4 Ward T,TR 
Sun Up To Sundown 
Tarsalation T,TR 
Ted's Trot T 
Tempest 
Thin Lizzy T 
Thunderbolt T 
TTL T 
TTR T,TR 
Twinkle Toes 
Upper Progressive T 
Upper Slot Left T 
Vault T 
Vedajuicer, The T 
Vulture Direct T 
Wall-To-Wall T 
War Zone T,S 
Where the Sidewalk Ends 
Whipping Boy T 
Unsorted Routes:

Flare Thee Well 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Todd Skinner and Paul Piana
Page Views: 1,046
Submitted By: Andy Johnson on Oct 19, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This difficult line is located approximately 50 feet left of Ghost Dance. Once you see it, the name will immediately make sense. While it appears as though this may not be a good one to lead, I assure you that it does take descent pro. The downside is that you need to hang out in some pretty strenuous stances to work the gear in just right. Also, if you place gear above you, you will definitely screw yourself in a major way. This climb is a bottomed-out flare with a distinct crux in the middle. I will give you one tip...believe in your right foot. I have climbed hard .11s at Vedauwoo that were significantly easier than this climb.

Protection 

Small Stoppers and RPs, maybe Screamers, cams #00 TCU to #0.75 Camalots. Don't worry about doubles. Two-bolt anchor at the top.


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By Justin Edl
May 8, 2006

This route is GREAT practice for both flared hand jamming and how to use your feet in a flared crack. If you struggle with flared cracks, go do this route. You can toprope it easily by scrambling around to the left. Knowing how to do flared jams is a prerequisite for many of the harder routes at Vedauwoo.
By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Jul 18, 2007
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

This thing is deceptive from the ground. The pro is tiny and difficult to fish in, and the jams are nowhere near as good as they look from a distance. Stout flared jams all the way.
By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Aug 27, 2007

Techy jams with techy gear placements. I found nuts worked best. Also, the route is about 35-40ft long rather than 60.
By Carolina
From: Farmington, nc
Nov 8, 2010

Best 11 at the Woo by far! Balance, jam, flare-jam and finger-lock your way to the top.
By bart cubrich 1
Oct 13, 2014
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

This route can be very safely and easily protected without small gear such as RPs. It is not a sketchy lead at all, as people assume it would be. You start 15' above a chasm, and get good gear before the climbing gets hard. I sewed it up with a #1, several #0.3s, and just one small cam (purple C3). Just run it out at the top and save the really small stuff for Father #1. This route is so fun! Excellent climbing!