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Flare Play left variation
Flare Play is the next crack up the southwest face of Dos Equis Wall from Scare Way (5.10b). Reach it by tricky scrambling to an uncomfortable belay in some big boulders leaning against the wall. There are two ways to climb this route, following either the left or right crack where it splits. The right crack seems slightly harder than the left.
For the left head up the thin crack and hand traverse left, make an insecure move up to a bolt and then lieback a rounded rail. Exciting but safe.
For the right crack instead of the hand traverse left, continue the steep thin crack with difficult to place but good pro. When it looks really really hard to continue, lean-fall-reach to the right using a small dark knob for a foothold to another left slanting hand crack.
Both ways finish on a 5.9ish pain full fist crack.
Pretty typical fun exciting Josh climbing.
Descend via single rope rappel from the anchor above Highway Man / Tecate if they haven't been chopped or scramble off southeast slabs.
A light rack of stoppers and cams. Have a 3.5" piece for the upper crack. Pro above the bolt on the left way is achieved in a very flared and grainy 2-3" crack. The right way could use some tiny stoppers and small to med aliens. The fixed pin shown in Randy's guide was gone as of Feb' 07. Gear belay or redirect to use bolt anchor near The Highwayman.
|By Richard Shore|
Dec 29, 2012
rating: 5.10c PG13
I did the right option/variation (no bolt), and it felt at least a grade harder than the adjacent Scare Way. You'll want/need gear where your few jams are, so plan accordingly - use the holds first, then place in them.