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> Corona/Dos Equis Wall
Flare Play
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.8 from 13
votes
Routes in Corona/Dos Equis Wall
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Border Patrol S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Chihuahua T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Flare Play T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Highwayman, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Miles Away From Ordinary T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ranger Is Watching Me, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Scare Way T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Secondary Inspection T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Skid Row (aka Air Play) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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South Buttress T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tecate T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Tres Equis T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,491 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | john durr on Oct 28, 2007 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Flare Play is the next crack up the southwest face of Dos Equis Wall from Scare Way (5.10b). Reach it by tricky scrambling to an uncomfortable belay in some big boulders leaning against the wall.
There are two ways to climb this route, following either the left layback with a new bolt or right straight up thin crack where it splits. Both ways are 5.10c and challenging leads. In my opinion its very worthwhile to lead both.
For the left head up the thin crack and hand traverse left, make an insecure move up to a bolt and then lieback a rounded rail, a green or red Camelot might go in the flare above the bolt.
For the right crack instead of the hand traverse left, continue the steep thin crack with difficult to place but good pro. When it looks really really hard to continue, go right to a left slanting hand crack above.
Both ways finish on a nice 5.9 fist crack.
Pretty typical fun exciting Josh climbing.
There are two ways to climb this route, following either the left layback with a new bolt or right straight up thin crack where it splits. Both ways are 5.10c and challenging leads. In my opinion its very worthwhile to lead both.
For the left head up the thin crack and hand traverse left, make an insecure move up to a bolt and then lieback a rounded rail, a green or red Camelot might go in the flare above the bolt.
For the right crack instead of the hand traverse left, continue the steep thin crack with difficult to place but good pro. When it looks really really hard to continue, go right to a left slanting hand crack above.
Both ways finish on a nice 5.9 fist crack.
Pretty typical fun exciting Josh climbing.
Location
Descend via single rope rappel from the anchor above Highway Man / Tecate or scramble off southeast slabs.
Protection
A light rack of stoppers and cams. Have a 3.5" piece (#3 Camelot) for the upper crack. Pro above the bolt on the left way is achieved in a very flared and grainy 1-2" crack. The right way could use some tiny stoppers and small to med aliens. The fixed pin shown in Randy's guide was gone as of Feb' 07. Gear belay in a hidden crack with tiny cams or redirect to use bolt anchor near The Highwayman.
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