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Flare Play left variation
Flare Play is the next crack up the southwest face of Dos Equis Wall from Scare Way
(5.10b). Reach it by tricky scrambling to an uncomfortable belay in some big boulders leaning against the wall.
There are two ways to climb this route, following either the left layback with a new bolt or right straight up thin crack where it splits. Both ways are 5.10c and challenging leads. In my opinion its very worthwhile to lead both.
For the left head up the thin crack and hand traverse left, make an insecure move up to a bolt and then lieback a rounded rail, a green or red Camelot might go in the flare above the bolt.
For the right crack instead of the hand traverse left, continue the steep thin crack with difficult to place but good pro. When it looks really really hard to continue, go right to a left slanting hand crack above.
Both ways finish on a nice 5.9 fist crack.
Pretty typical fun exciting Josh climbing.
Descend via single rope rappel from the anchor above Highway Man / Tecate or scramble off southeast slabs.
A light rack of stoppers and cams. Have a 3.5" piece (#3 Camelot) for the upper crack. Pro above the bolt on the left way is achieved in a very flared and grainy 1-2" crack. The right way could use some tiny stoppers and small to med aliens. The fixed pin shown in Randy's guide was gone as of Feb' 07. Gear belay in a hidden crack with tiny cams or redirect to use bolt anchor near The Highwayman
By Richard Shore
Dec 29, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
I did the right option/variation (no bolt), and it felt at least a grade harder than the adjacent Scare Way. You'll want/need gear where your few jams are, so plan accordingly - use the holds first, then place in them.