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In the midst of the crux heading toward the mantle...
This is a compelling route judging from the topo.... 4 pitches of 5.11 in a row, mostly cracks, but a good facey pitch. You know, hey let's go do Flapjack. Now, just head down the Chillumstone (one 70m fine). Well, topos don't tell the whole story- crappy rock on p2 makes for a tedious pitch, it's hard right were the rock is bad and whoever put the route up drilled 1/4" threaded bolts. Anyway, it's an ok route, and the climbing would be really good if it was on splitter stone.
Go down Chillumstone, do the rap (single 70m is perfect) and head across the ledge heading toward Blackjack
, it has some 5th class moves that would be bad if anything happened, easy to rope up if desired. Start in a small, left-facing corner approximately 100m below and to the left of Blackjack
. Look for some bolts about 70' up trending rightward. Top out on some ledgey terrain and either head up staying right on ridge (recommended and exposed) or venture into the oak and bushwhack up the gully to your right. Gandalf's Beard is on the wall across the gully.
Standard rack with extras in 1"-1.5" and thin hands, we brought 1 each #3 & #4 Camalot. Lots of long runners help because of the traversing nature of the route. Again, the lead bolts are 1/4" threaded, but the belay bolts are beefier.
BETA PHOTO: In the crux of P4.
BETA PHOTO: Flapjack topo.
From: Durango, Colorado
Jun 7, 2011
FA: Tim Kuss & James Williamson.
By Rob Duncan
From: Salt Lake City
Aug 25, 2014
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
The first real pitch, the 11+, is bouldery and cool. Hard moves. Good quality stone. The second 5.11 pitch, steep hands, is good climbing, but the rock is poor and birdshit is everywhere! Breathe deeply... the rest of the route is ok. I think it's a good route to do once if you've done everything else on the S. Rim. Definitely would not do it again, but it is not a bad day out.