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A great line! This might be a bit heady if 5.11b is at your limit, as the bolts are a bit spaced out. Climb overhanging rock to reach a pair of crimpers. Make a reach to a perfect hole and clip the 2nd bolt (crux). Continue up the arete and get a good rest just before the final overhang. At the overhang, traverse out right to reach the 5th bolt at the lip of the overhang. Make a few moves on OK holds to pull the overhang (redpoint crux).
This is the next bolted line to the right of Macauley's Irish Stout, 5.12b. Locate the clean arete that leads to an overhang.
5 bolts, shuts.
By Sam Stephens
Oct 2, 2010
There's a much better way to do the crux rather than using the two crimpers. Just saying.
By David Mitchell
From: Blacksburg, VA
Sep 2, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
It looks like if you blew the clip at the third bolt you might deck. But, it would be pretty difficult to blow that clip.