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Flaming Blue Jesus to Mandala
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British PG13
Avg: 3 from 5
votes
Routes in Holdout
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19th Nervous Breakdown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Beefeater T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bushwhack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Cement Shoes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V-easy 3 |
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Currey's Diagonal T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Eleven Cent Moon T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Equilibrium T V10-11 8A |
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Existential Dilemma T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Flaming Blue Jesus to Mandala T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Layback Approach Offwidth T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Morning Sickness T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Nadia's Kiss of Death T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Narrow and Ugly T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Narrow Bushwhack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Oslund's Delight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pipeline S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rainbow in the Dark T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Reading Raymond Chandler (aka Practice Aid Climb) T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rejecter Ejector aka Arch Stanton T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Silver Surfer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Through Thick and Thin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Uncle Billy V0-1 4+ |
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Unknown Funky Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Up the Down Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Veggie Eater S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Very Narrow and Treesy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wide and Ugly T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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William T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wright of Thick and Thin T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 65 ft (20 m) |
| FA: | Piana, Cowan (1986) for FBJ... Mandala unknown? |
| Page Views: | 3,808 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | nolteboy on Jul 16, 2006 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Description
Although rarely traveled, this line's obscurity is undeserved. Interesting moves, adequate but slightly spicy protection, and a super cool exit... Start as for Arch Stanton, off of a large boulder. Power up past the overlap, then step left into the dihedral and stem up past the bottoming crack. When Mandala breaks right, place gear and head out over the big empty.
Location
On the SE side of Holdout. Start as for Arch Stanton (& if you can't find Arch Stanton, go back to the truck), Gear anchor or slung boulders on top, then shimmy thru the narrow corridor to the NE (i.e. to the right, as you top out on the route) and find cold shuts atop Bushwhack.
Protection
Although given R ratings in the current spate of guidebooks, protection is actually pretty dang good. Even after passing the overlap of Arch Stanton, two small but solid placements appear- a #7-ish stopper followed by a green Alien/blue TCU. After a couple of spooky stemming moves, a #2 Camalot can be gratefully placed. Rack should include stoppers, doubles of smallish stuff, and a couple of hand-sized pieces for the middle section after the bottoming crack. Nothing bigger, except maybe for the anchor on top?
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