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 ADVANCED
Video Bluff
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Ace T,TR 
Bikini S 
Damaged Circuit  TR 
Edge of Might S 
Eve of Destruction T,TR 
EZ Corner T,TR 
Flakey Old Man S,TR 
Live Wire S,TR 
Robotics TR 
Stained Glass T,TR 
Stranger Than Friction S,TR 

Flakey Old Man 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30', Grade V
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 2,075
Submitted By: Caleb Phillips on Oct 20, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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BETA PHOTO: Flakey Old Man to the left.

Description 

This is a classic problem. It isn't hard, but can be really enjoyable, especially for newbies or first-time sport leaders. The most interesting move is near the top, where you must switch hands to the flakey stuff on the left.


Location 

Just about dead-center in the wall. Right of a 5.10 on a nose and Left of a difficult looking 5.11.


Protection 

Bolts. 2-bolt Anchor at the top. Use a tree and a long sling to safely get to the top-rope bolts. Or, lead it, which is more fun.



Photos of Flakey Old Man Slideshow Add Photo
Sandeep takes a rest and uses a bolt to brace himself (it was his first climb, ever).
Sandeep takes a rest and uses a bolt to brace hims...
Finishing out the old flakey
Finishing out the old flakey
flakey old man anchors and route down onto the video base
BETA PHOTO: flakey old man anchors and route down onto the vid...
Starting Flakey
Starting Flakey
Comments on Flakey Old Man Add Comment
Show which comments
By Teh Phuzzy
Jul 1, 2010

3 bolts on route, but I usually forget the second one

By another Chad
Feb 27, 2011

The anchor atop Flakey Old Man was upgraded in the summer of 2009 with a third chain and some beefy hardware. For safety sake, please do not reach out for this anchor from the top without being roped up.


Chad

By Mike Zasadzien
May 22, 2014

Great for a first-timer's lead climb!!