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Flakey Old Man 

5.7

   
1,267 page views
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Type: Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet, Grade V
Consensus: 5.7 [details]
FA: 
Submitted By: Caleb Phillips on Oct 20, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Sandeep takes a rest and uses a bolt to brace hims...

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Description 

This is a classic problem. It isn't hard, but can be really enjoyable, especially for newbies or first-time sport leaders. The most interesting move is near the top, where you must switch hands to the flakey stuff on the left.


Location 

Just about dead-center in the wall. Right of a 5.10 on a nose and Left of a difficult looking 5.11.


Protection 

Bolts. 2-bolt Anchor at the top. Use a tree and a long sling to safely get to the top-rope bolts. Or, lead it, which is more fun.



Photos of Flakey Old Man Slideshow Add Photo
Finishing out the old flakey

Finishing out the old flakey

Starting Flakey

Starting Flakey

flakey old man anchors and route down onto the video base

BETA PHOTO: flakey old man anchors and route down onto the vid...


Comments on Flakey Old Man Add Comment
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By Teh Phuzzy
Jul 1, 2010

3 bolts on route, but I usually forget the second one

By another Chad
Feb 27, 2011

The anchor atop Flakey Old Man was upgraded in the summer of 2009 with a third chain and some beefy hardware. For safety sake, please do not reach out for this anchor from the top without being roped up.


Chad