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Flakey Old Man 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type: Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30', Grade V
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
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Page Views: 1,816
Submitted By: Caleb Phillips on Oct 20, 2007
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Starting Flakey

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Description 

This is a classic problem. It isn't hard, but can be really enjoyable, especially for newbies or first-time sport leaders. The most interesting move is near the top, where you must switch hands to the flakey stuff on the left.


Location 

Just about dead-center in the wall. Right of a 5.10 on a nose and Left of a difficult looking 5.11.


Protection 

Bolts. 2-bolt Anchor at the top. Use a tree and a long sling to safely get to the top-rope bolts. Or, lead it, which is more fun.



Photos of Flakey Old Man Slideshow Add Photo
Sandeep takes a rest and uses a bolt to brace himself (it was his first climb, ever).
Sandeep takes a rest and uses a bolt to brace hims...
Finishing out the old flakey
Finishing out the old flakey
flakey old man anchors and route down onto the video base
BETA PHOTO: flakey old man anchors and route down onto the vid...
Comments on Flakey Old Man Add Comment
Show which comments
By Teh Phuzzy
Jul 1, 2010

3 bolts on route, but I usually forget the second one

By another Chad
Feb 27, 2011

The anchor atop Flakey Old Man was upgraded in the summer of 2009 with a third chain and some beefy hardware. For safety sake, please do not reach out for this anchor from the top without being roped up.


Chad