Flakey Old Man
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BETA PHOTO: Flakey Old Man to the left.
This is a classic problem. It isn't hard, but can be really enjoyable, especially for newbies or first-time sport leaders. The most interesting move is near the top, where you must switch hands to the flakey stuff on the left.
Just about dead-center in the wall. Right of a 5.10 on a nose and Left of a difficult looking 5.11.
Bolts. 2-bolt Anchor at the top. Use a tree and a long sling to safely get to the top-rope bolts. Or, lead it, which is more fun.
BETA PHOTO: flakey old man anchors and route down onto the vid...
Finishing out the old flakey
Sandeep takes a rest and uses a bolt to brace hims...
By Teh Phuzzy
Jul 1, 2010
3 bolts on route, but I usually forget the second one
By another Chad
Feb 27, 2011
The anchor atop Flakey Old Man was upgraded in the summer of 2009 with a third chain and some beefy hardware. For safety sake, please do not reach out for this anchor from the top without being roped up.
Aug 31, 2016
I second that advice. Don't reach over to the chains without pro. It is a sketchy situation.