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The initial part of this climb ascends a thin flake for the first 15 feet (crux). Gain the ledge and go left up a finger crack to a small roof. Turn the roof to the left or the right. This route is easily rigged for TR from the top.
[If you know the "real name" for this climb, post up. -Admin]
Approximately 15 feet to the left of Blow Hole.
1 set wired stoppers, 1 set cams up to a #1 Camalot.
A bolted anchor for Flakey Nine is down on the big ledge.
Getting ready to move around to the right of the r...
|By Daniel Trugman|
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Apr 12, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
Another worthy 5.9 at the Playground. Fun moves on the flakes lead to cool stemming in the upper dihedral up..
Gear through the crux opening twenty feet is a bit tricky. TCUs, link cams, or big stuff (#4/#5) protect this reasonably well. I've heard small nuts get the job done as well. Anyways, it's there, you just need to be creative.
Maybe a little easier than Upper Left Roof, but more fun IMO.