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Unsorted Routes:

Flakey Nine 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ???
Page Views: 535
Submitted By: Jason Hundhausen on Jan 19, 2008
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At the crux of the route just above the cool thin ...

Description 

The initial part of this climb ascends a thin flake for the first 15 feet (crux). Gain the ledge and go left up a finger crack to a small roof. Turn the roof to the left or the right. This route is easily rigged for TR from the top.

[If you know the "real name" for this climb, post up. -Admin]


Location 

Approximately 15 feet to the left of Blow Hole.


Protection 

1 set wired stoppers, 1 set cams up to a #1 Camalot.
A bolted anchor for Flakey Nine is down on the big ledge.



Photos of Flakey Nine Slideshow Add Photo
Getting ready to move around to the right of the roof at the top of the route.
Getting ready to move around to the right of the r...
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By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Apr 12, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Another worthy 5.9 at the Playground. Fun moves on the flakes lead to cool stemming in the upper dihedral up..

Gear through the crux opening twenty feet is a bit tricky. TCUs, link cams, or big stuff (#4/#5) protect this reasonably well. I've heard small nuts get the job done as well. Anyways, it's there, you just need to be creative.

Maybe a little easier than Upper Left Roof, but more fun IMO.