|Ed and Terry Wall
A steep, exposed, thrilling, and wonderful natural line up the best-looking face in Rock Canyon. When big-name climbers come to Rock Canyon, Flakes always impresses.
The line follows the right side of two large flakes about twenty feet to the left Main Crack.
A start directly below the right side of the first flake is how most people climb it these now, but in the days of shorter ropes climbers started almost directly below Main Crack and traversed left.
The climbing is exciting: easy moves interspersed with somewhat harder moves on mostly solid holds, and the occasional creaky jug. The gear is obvious and solid.
When the edge of the top flake peters out, bear right and up to an obvious crack and the chains.
A single set of stoppers and cams, two bolts, and bolted anchors.
|By Lee Jensen|
Aug 12, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
You can top rope this with a 60m if you have the climber traverse the little ledges at the base. Make sure you tie a knot in the rope on the belayer side. Because, you will run out of rope when lowering. It would be a shame to let the rope slip through your belay device, dropping your partner below the ledges then tumble 300 feet to the base of red slab.
Great route. protects really well with nuts. Two bomber blots on the way up. Double anchor at the top, each with double rings.
|By Stephen Sagers|
Sep 2, 2005
If you have a 60M rope the best way to do it is to climb up to the landing directly below the Main Crack. The lead climber will have to climb about 15 feet up and about 10 feet to the right to the first bolt. But to the first bolt isn't too bad. (This will also save you from climbing through vegetation) Also do a figure 8 in the end of your rope, you have just enough to come back down, but with no rope to spare.Also belayer be careful (especially with climbers heavier then you) - with the first bolt being at an angle the rope will pull you towards it. The landing is at an angle as well so if the climber falls or is being lowered you may be pulled down. I recommend you anchor yourself to the rocks on the other side of the landing, you won't regret it.
|By Christian "crisco" Burrell|
From: PG, Utah
May 9, 2008
What were those guys who only gave this route 2 stars thinking? This route is as good as trad gets in R.C.
|By Tristan Higbee|
May 10, 2008
Yeah, I'm one of those guys that gives it two stars. I just wasn't too impressed with the route.
Crisco said: "As good as trad gets in R.C." I disagree. I think that routes like Main Crack, Green Monster, and even the routes on the north side of Bolt Slab are better than this. I dunno... It's been a few years, maybe I should go do it again...
|By Adam Wilson|
From: Provo, UT
Oct 27, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
Christian told me for years that this is the best route in rock canyon. I didn't believe him.
He was wrong. This is one of the best 5.7's anywhere.
|By Erik S. Gillis|
Jul 6, 2009
Awesome climb! The best 5-7 I have ever done. Not saying much, but still a stellar climb. That being said about 1/3 of the way up there is a very loose flake. I don't know if that is recent or not, but I imagine it is. Just be careful, a falling flake off of this climb could be really bad for your belayer or climbers on red slab.
|By Tristan Higbee|
Aug 13, 2009
My first time up (several years ago) I was pretty scared by what I perceived to be substantial runouts and marginal gear. I did it again today and thoroughly enjoyed it. I still think that Main Crack is better, but this is a pretty great climb. This route is very doable with just a set of nuts.
|By Jim Knight|
May 24, 2010
Years ago, I personally heard a visiting climber (with FA credits of the Salathe and N.A. Walls on El Cap—plus Lotus Flower Tower in Canada—among many others) say this while climbing the Flakes route:
"I always dreamed of a route like this."
Perhaps we need to climb outside of Utah Valley AND to appreciate how good we have it?
maximum stars. no contest.
|By Greg Halliday|
From: Spanish Fork, UT
Oct 18, 2011
Jim Knight said: "Years ago, I personally heard a visiting climber (with FA credits of the Salathe and N.A. Walls on El Cap—plus Lotus Flower Tower in Canada—among many others) say this while climbing the Flakes route:
"I always dreamed of a route like this." "
Tom Frost perchance? If he really climbed here, that's wickedly awesome!
|By Abe Tomco|
Mar 13, 2012
This is one of the best routes for practicing stopper/nut placements. There are plenty of holds, but few that you can lean back on. Teaches good balance and good small-med nut placement. No cams needed.
|By Sam Cannon|
From: Holladay, Utah
Apr 24, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
Stout for a 5.7. This is to 5.7's what Satan's Corner in LCC is to 5.8's. Thrilling, delicate, fun moves, good gear. Offset stoppers work really nicely. I also had good placements for a 1, 2, and 3 mastercam. Thought this was an overall more enjoyable climb than Maincrack.