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Wall Street
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Flakes of Wrath T,TR 
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Walk on the Wide Side 
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Zig Zag S 

Flakes of Wrath 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Alison Sheets, 1988
Page Views: 16,842
Submitted By: George Bell on Feb 26, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (268)
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Adam Perks, placing gear under the roof on The Fla...

Description 

Fun trad route up an obvious left leaning, left facing corner. After leading you can TR the difficult direct variation to the left. One of the best routes here, maybe 4 stars?


Protection 

Friends to #3.5 with maybe an extra #2 and #2.5, medium to large stoppers.



Photos of Flakes of Wrath Slideshow Add Photo
Atop a new fav crack in Moab.  Zipped up.
Atop a new fav crack in Moab. Zipped up.
Underclinging out to the finish.
Underclinging out to the finish.
Adam Perks approaching the end of the opening hand/foot jamming moves on Flakes of Wrath (5.9+), Mim in the background with an attentive belay.
Adam Perks approaching the end of the opening hand...
Pulling the surprisingly easy roof up top.
Pulling the surprisingly easy roof up top.
Adam Perks working through a crux on The Flakes of Wrath (5.9+). This is also where the new variation "East of Wrath" moves to the face and continues straight up on horizontal cracks to the new anchor.
Adam Perks working through a crux on The Flakes of...
Me having a blast on this fun route.
Me having a blast on this fun route.
Avery Later jamming on Flakes of Wrath
Avery Later jamming on Flakes of Wrath
The gear is a little tricky in this section, since the crack flares behind the lip of the flake.
The gear is a little tricky in this section, since...
Can the approach get any longer??
Can the approach get any longer??
gorgeous fall day on flakes of wrath
gorgeous fall day on flakes of wrath
Flakes of Wrath in the snow
Flakes of Wrath in the snow
Lorin leading Flakes of Wrath--nice one, brother--I said NICE ONE!
Lorin leading Flakes of Wrath--nice one, brother--...
Route from across road
BETA PHOTO: Route from across road
Doing laps on the Flake of Wrath
Doing laps on the Flake of Wrath
Elaine digs a good jam!
Elaine digs a good jam!
High up on the route.
High up on the route.
Flakes of Wrath
Flakes of Wrath
Placing last piece
Placing last piece
Flakes of Wrath <br />
Flakes of Wrath
Mike O'Sullivan
Mike O'Sullivan
Flakes of wrath favorite single pitch trad route
Flakes of wrath favorite single pitch trad route
Lisa Gillest ripping it up on a HOT day at Wall Street
Lisa Gillest ripping it up on a HOT day at Wall St...
Me on my first real desert trip!
Me on my first real desert trip!
Comments on Flakes of Wrath Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 22, 2014
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Feb 28, 2002
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

The left hand 'direct' variation is 5.11b and is even more fun than the regular route. Note, however, that a few non-direct moves are made in the 'direct' route. It's a great problem with a complex and interesting crux.

By Casey Bernal
From: Arvada, CO
Feb 28, 2002

I felt that the crux was in the thin section in the middle of the climb. I used several wires here but didn't have all the sizes I needed. The way the crack pinches down makes small cam and tcu placements impossible. Take stoppers from about #6 to #12. The roof takes a #1 and #2 cam. fun climb

By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 15, 2002

George, I can't believe there is any doubt about 3 stars! Amazing route.

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 15, 2002

I guess I'm not a fan of Wall St, it is too close to a major road for my tastes. When those potash trucks blast by just inches from your belayer it detracts from the wilderness setting! This is the best line I've done there, though.

By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 16, 2002

I have to agree George, there's no way I can climb Wall Street more than 1/2 day on any trip. That said, I've done eight or nine routes there, all but two of which were excellent, this being the best.

By Paul Nelson
Aug 25, 2002

On the direct line, be very cautious about a loose block at the top of the crack section.

By Scott Conner
From: Lyons, CO
May 27, 2003

Definitely a 3-Star Wall St. climb. A teriffic pitch of jamming and laybacking. Do bring a set of small to medium stoppers for the crux. I cavalierly left mine at the base and had to rig up a marginal cam. A must-do and easier than the Moki Roof, IMO.

By Shane Zentner
From: Colorado
Feb 9, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Number one and two camalots. Jam your way up this beautiful crack to an anchor. Save enough energy for that roof crack thing to the right.

By Nick Strong
Mar 11, 2004
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I've loved this route for years now, but it freaks me out to climb it because I've seen two people deck on it from 30+ feet. Both of them zippered. I'm pretty sure they weren't placing correctly, though, as I've never had any problems. Also, that crap at the bottom of the climb is Poison Sumac. Two months of rashes helped me learn that.

By rob bauer
From: Golden, CO
Dec 14, 2004

Just a comment for AC/Casey B. I've climbed the route a few times over the years and always used a tied-off runner at the pinch to protect the moves up from the pinch-off mentioned.

By utfreeclimber
From: Sandy, UT
Mar 21, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

This climb is a super fun warm up with a variety of sorta sustained moves spaced out with killer rests. The lieback around the flake at the top is really cool.

By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
May 31, 2006
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Harder than Visible Panty Line. Fun crux. I used all my medium and large nuts, and then doubles from .75-#2 camalot. Good stuff.

By Mark Michaels
From: Draper, UT
Sep 28, 2006
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

LOVE this route! LOVE IT! The direct version 11b is recommended as TR only. The crux is at the top...the cracks down lower are 10ish with a nice rest in the middle. AWESOME.

By Jonathan Schumacher
From: Sandy, UT
Jun 20, 2007

What a killer route! Mother nature should have made 1000ft of this!

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 19, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

best route at the grade on Wall st...great climb. a single set is fine- maybe a second #1 or #2 for the roof....

By Rhett Burroughs
From: Valdosta, GA
Jun 30, 2008

such a great climb!

By Skyler Penrod
Jul 8, 2008

This was my second trad lead and is still one of my favorite climbs in the area. I think I placed up to a #4 Friend at the start for security reasons. Also watch out for the sand in the crack that always ensues after a good rain.

By Devon Barker
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Oct 14, 2008

Absolutely awesome route!!! my first trad lead on sandstone and all the placements felt solid. If your up for a good challenge try the direct variation. The crux is definitely interesting!

By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
May 8, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Rock in this area has been trashed by rope-grooves created through people lowering off and top-roping from fixed anchors. Try looking at the photos to figure out which are the more recent ones! There are some very popular small sandstone outcrops in SE England that have been badly abused in the past by climbers top-roping, but even there it's rare to find rope damage as bad as this. Guide-book needs to state emphatically that, to avoid further damage, climbers should belay at top of pitch, then abseil, sorry rap, to ground. Come on guys, this is common sense - we don't need the environmental police on our backs.
Route itself is no soft touch - in UK terms as hard as HVS 5b at Wilton.

By Woodson
From: Park City, Ut.
May 16, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Sooooo bad A$$$$! This route should not be missed, and should be repeated and repeated. The undercling is so great, and protects well, and runners here are a good call. I didn't runner it and ended with some drag.

By Garrett Robinson
From: Leadville, CO
Sep 17, 2009

The protection funkyness where the crack doesn't take cams can be really well protected with a creative tricam placement. This seemed to be more bomber than the nut placements available.

By rick gardiner
From: Grand Junction, CO,
Nov 14, 2009

I did this route rope solo, using my truck as the anchor and absolutely loved it. Good jams with an interesting reachy(finger crack)/smeary(for feet) crux that protects well with nuts. No need to bring anything bigger than a #3 camalot. I am not a fan of climbing by a major road with big trucks buzzing by and climbers bringing their families(kids and dogs)to the area. Another thing I witnessed was belayers standing in the road and not moving out of the way of traffic. Is this arrogance or ignorance?

By Peter Swank
From: Boulder, CO
May 8, 2010
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Beautiful line, with great protection all the way up.

By Rob C.
From: Freeport, ME
Oct 31, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Great jams! Really fun and somewhat sustained!

By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
Mar 16, 2012
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Nuts and tricams, or hexes for the middle section where the two cracks/flakes meet. This gear protects the crux so make it count. Use a long sling on the roof to reduce drag to the anchors! So fun.

By Hendo
From: Denver, CO
Oct 23, 2012

As intimidating as the overhang traverse thing looks, this is not the hard part. The hard part is definitely the thin section. I top roped this, but was checking out the pro possibilities while climbing. Looks interesting for sure in that thin section. My leader placed a .5 C4 in that section, but man was it tough to get out. Sounds like other people manage to place a nut in that section. Oh, this route is a bit pumpy as well, but it might have just been that it was my third day down there.

By Marcel Robicheaux
From: Kanab, UT
Apr 16, 2013

four stars all the way

By Gabby Olsen
From: Holladay, UT
Apr 14, 2014

I lead this the other day and a guy named John was there and let me use a cam and left before I could return it. John if you see this can you email me at gabby_j_olsen@hotmail.com and I can mail your cam back to you!

By Jon st.peter
Apr 22, 2014

Hi Gabby, it's Jon, nice lead and thanks for the solid, I emailed you, but just in case I missed something you can catch me at j_stpeter@live.com