TR'd this route a couple of times. The 5.9+ big hands crack is pretty stiff. It's a funny angle so it's pretty strenuous. When i did it this last time someone had placed a bolt on the face but it's been removed. That section is run out but it would be a safe fall and that little runout section makes the climb way more fun and interesting. No need for a bolt there. Thanks to whoever removed it.
I thought about leading this onsight but decided to just do the normal start and TR it. Glad we did it that way. The fall would be safe, assuming that your gear holds... then again it's all behind a rather thin (1") flake so I'd stack up quite a bit at the end of the crack if you go for it.
By ben jammin From: Moab, UT Mar 11, 2012 rating: 5.11c6c+24VIII-24E4 6a PG13
Lead this one! A #4 Camelot protects well just under the green aliens stacked in the flake that probably won't hold a fall (especially the one your gonna take if you blow the boulder problem!)
I agree that this route should not include a bolt after the flake. However, when somebody takes a large enough whip on that flake, it may go, and the route will be forever changed. Maybe a bolt would save the route? Food for thought. I loved it without the bolt.
By Alex Quitiquit From: Salt Lake City Mar 4, 2013 rating: 5.11c/d7a24VIII25E4 6a R
Nest of small cams before the boulder problem should keep you off the ground. Pretty Awesome.