Flakes of Wrath Direct 5.11 R
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Working out the upper moves to Flakes of Wrath dir...
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Description 5.9+ hand jams lead up to thinning double cracks. When the crack runs out, keep climbing the face with no bolts.
Location This crack shares anchors with Flakes of Wrath but starts to the left of it.
Protection Cams. No bolts. Anchors at top.
| Comments on Flakes of Wrath Direct |
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By Rob C. From: Freeport, ME Oct 31, 2010 rating: 5.11 R
| I top roped this; very strenuous and awesome jams! |
By steven sadler From: south jordan, UT Jul 27, 2011
| TR'd this route a couple of times. The 5.9+ big hands crack is pretty stiff. It's a funny angle so it's pretty strenuous. When i did it this last time someone had placed a bolt on the face but it's been removed. That section is run out but it would be a safe fall and that little runout section makes the climb way more fun and interesting. No need for a bolt there. Thanks to whoever removed it. |
By claramie From: Boulder, CO Oct 13, 2011
| I thought about leading this onsight but decided to just do the normal start and TR it. Glad we did it that way. The fall would be safe, assuming that your gear holds... then again it's all behind a rather thin (1") flake so I'd stack up quite a bit at the end of the crack if you go for it. |
By MIYG From: Moab, UT Mar 11, 2012 rating: 5.11c PG13
| Lead this one! A #4 Camelot protects well just under the green aliens stacked in the flake that probably won't hold a fall (especially the one your gonna take if you blow the boulder problem!) |
By Evan Deis From: The land of Justice Dec 2, 2012
| I agree that this route should not include a bolt after the flake. However, when somebody takes a large enough whip on that flake, it may go, and the route will be forever changed. Maybe a bolt would save the route? Food for thought. I loved it without the bolt. |
By Alex Quitiquit From: Salt Lake City Mar 4, 2013 rating: 5.11c/d R
| Nest of small cams before the boulder problem should keep you off the ground. Pretty Awesome. |
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