Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Wall Street
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"Big Corner" 
30 Seconds Over Potash 
A Fistful of Potash 
Another Roadside Distraction 
Astro Lad 
Baby Blue 
Bad Moki Roof 
Banana Peel 
Big Sky Mud Flaps 
Blowing Chunks 
Brown Banana 
Campground Crack 
Chemistry 
Dark Horse 
Desp-Arete 
Diplomatic Immunity 
Dr Strange Flake 
Dunn Copeland 
East Of Wrath 
Eat the Rich 
El Cracko Diablo 
El Face-o Diablo 
Enigma Campground Route 
Eyes of Falina 
Fernando 
Fistful Corner 
Flakes of Wrath 
Flakes of Wrath Direct 
Frogs of a Feather 
Good, The Bad, and the Potash, The 
Grama and the Green Suede Shoes 
Half Pipe 
Horizontal Mambo 
I Love Loosey 
Jacob's Ladder 
Jug Roof 
Just Another Pretty Face 
Knapping With The Alien 
Lacto Mangulation 
Last Tango in Potash 
Little Tufa's 
Lizard Skills 
Lucy in the Sky with Potash 
Man After Midnight 
Middle Child Syndrome (Unknown) 
Midnight Frightening 
Mini Skirt 
Mississippi High Step 
Mother Trucker 
Nervous in Suburbia 
No Fly Zone 
Pedigree Poodles 
Pinhead 
Points West 
Potash Bong Hit 
Potash Sanction 
Potstash 
Puppy Love 
Right Side In  
Ring Pin 
Room With A View 
Room With A View (free) 
School Room Slabs 
Seibernetics 
Shadowfax 
She-la the Peeler 
Shoot Up or Shut Up 
Skeletonic 
Slab 
Slab 2 
Slab Route 
Smoke Filled Rooms 
Static Cling 
Steel Your Face 
Stego Slab 
Summit Chimney 
Tired of Talus 
Top 40 
Twittin Shinkies 
Two Sides of Purple, The 
Under the Boardwalk  
Unemployment Line 
Unknown 
Unknown Slab 
Visible Panty Line 
Wake of the Flood 
Walk on the Wide Side 
Warsteiner 
Willow Whip 
Zig Zag 

Flakes of Wrath Direct 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,469
Submitted By: Lucas J Matthews on Oct 17, 2010
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Working out the upper moves to Flakes of Wrath dir...

Description 

5.9+ hand jams lead up to thinning double cracks. When the crack runs out, keep climbing the face with no bolts.


Location 

This crack shares anchors with Flakes of Wrath but starts to the left of it.


Protection 

Cams. No bolts. Anchors at top.



Photos of Flakes of Wrath Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Isaiah jamming Flakes of Wrath Direct
Isaiah jamming Flakes of Wrath Direct
Comments on Flakes of Wrath Direct Add Comment
Show which comments
By Rob C.
From: Freeport, ME
Oct 31, 2010
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c R

I top roped this; very strenuous and awesome jams!

By steven sadler
From: SLC, UT
Jul 27, 2011

TR'd this route a couple of times. The 5.9+ big hands crack is pretty stiff. It's a funny angle so it's pretty strenuous. When i did it this last time someone had placed a bolt on the face but it's been removed. That section is run out but it would be a safe fall and that little runout section makes the climb way more fun and interesting. No need for a bolt there. Thanks to whoever removed it.

By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 13, 2011

I thought about leading this onsight but decided to just do the normal start and TR it. Glad we did it that way. The fall would be safe, assuming that your gear holds... then again it's all behind a rather thin (1") flake so I'd stack up quite a bit at the end of the crack if you go for it.

By ben jammin
From: Moab, UT
Mar 11, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a PG13

Lead this one! A #4 Camelot protects well just under the green aliens stacked in the flake that probably won't hold a fall (especially the one your gonna take if you blow the boulder problem!)

By Goat
From: Boulder
Dec 2, 2012

I agree that this route should not include a bolt after the flake. However, when somebody takes a large enough whip on that flake, it may go, and the route will be forever changed. Maybe a bolt would save the route? Food for thought. I loved it without the bolt.

By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
Mar 4, 2013
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a R

Nest of small cams before the boulder problem should keep you off the ground. Pretty Awesome.