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 ADVANCED
Fourth Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Candelaria's Crack T 
Flake T,TR 
Heartland, The T 
Mickey Mantle T 
Northwest Face T 
Scrundle Corner T 
Smooth Groove T 
South Face Roof 
Southwest Chimney T 
Undocumented Free Roof T 
Unknown Mixed Route aka The Green Gargoyle? T 
Unknown, The T 
Zolar Czakl T 
Zolar Czakl (Direct) T,TR 

Flake 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Stan Shepard, Allen Bergen, 1961. FFA: Art Higbee, Luke Stud
Page Views: 716
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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BETA PHOTO: Third Buttress
1. Standard Route (7+)
2. West Face...
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Begin on top of the water pipe at the mouth of the tunnel and climb the steep and thin flake on the R side. Climb up to a roof and stay L up the great face. This is a nice face climb and also number 3 in the picture.


Protection 

RPs, stoppers, small cams, w/ some fixed gear. The serious fall potential is on the face (9+ s).



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By Jordon Griffler
From: boulder
Sep 21, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R

A neat route, with long legs you can avoid the 10c crux with some serious back stemming in the chimney. The face up above is spooky and committing, but way cool. Expect some lichen and not much chalk to guide the way.

By Chris I
From: Fresno, CA
Oct 22, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R

Pretty bouldery and stiff start to this one if you opt to tackle the face directly, without stemming. Getting off the ground and into the route was the crux for me, and then some great 10 moves followed until getting up on the slab. The R section comes about half way up the route and involved some balancey 5.9 moves. I followed this one, so I can't vouch for how scary a lead it was, but it didn't seem too bad.