|The Thumb Area
Best done on TR from S-Crack's 2nd pitch anchors, as the flake is VERY thin and fragile. You could bury some cams deep in there, but its probably not worth it. Lieback or jam your way up the great flake, reminiscent of the zion curtain, only shorter. Bypassing a annoying bush that destroys your mojo midway up is unavoidable.
Once the flake ends, you land on a large flat pillar ledge. Protect via small wires/cams and either slab it straight left or downclimb then stem over into the chimney on S-Cracks 2nd pitch.
This is essentially just a variation to the 2nd pitch of s-crack. Climb up the first pitch of S crack and belay on the coyne crack tree anchors. Lean out right to gain access to the flake.
Bring a standard rack to finish on S-crack, but the flake takes mostly hand size to wide hands. 2-3 of #1-#3 camalot should do with long slings attached. The R was given in the Ruckman guide, either due to the delicate nature of the flake or possibly the lack of cams during the FA.
|Comments on Flake Variation