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Flake Variation 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: George Lowe
Page Views: 129
Submitted By: Spencer Weiler on Apr 25, 2013
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The flake

Description 

Best done on TR from S-Crack's 2nd pitch anchors, as the flake is VERY thin and fragile. You could bury some cams deep in there, but its probably not worth it. Lieback or jam your way up the great flake, reminiscent of the zion curtain, only shorter. Bypassing a annoying bush that destroys your mojo midway up is unavoidable.

Once the flake ends, you land on a large flat pillar ledge. Protect via small wires/cams and either slab it straight left or downclimb then stem over into the chimney on S-Cracks 2nd pitch.


Location 

This is essentially just a variation to the 2nd pitch of s-crack. Climb up the first pitch of S crack and belay on the coyne crack tree anchors. Lean out right to gain access to the flake.


Protection 

Bring a standard rack to finish on S-crack, but the flake takes mostly hand size to wide hands. 2-3 of #1-#3 camalot should do with long slings attached. The R was given in the Ruckman guide, either due to the delicate nature of the flake or possibly the lack of cams during the FA.



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