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 ADVANCED
Indian Rock
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No Hands Route 
Overhung Roof 
Overhung roof problem 
Overhung Wall - Right Exit 
pegboard 
Seam, The 
Six Hold Traverse 
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Flake Traverse 

Hueco: V4 Font: 6B

   
Type:  Boulder, 20'
Consensus:  Hueco: V3+ Font: 6A+ [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,319
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Aug 28, 2002
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Description 

This route ascends the large flake just to the right of the overhung wall (V0). This is located around the corner to the right from the main chimney, near the log benches.

Start on up the lower-right side of the flake, and head up and left until the flake ends. Head left off the flake with a reachy move to a large crimp on the right side of the overhung wall. The crux is moving over to the overhung wall sidepull near the top.

Another variation involves matching the crimp before moving your legs over.


Protection 

a crashpad or some buddies. You'll probably find a crashpad already underneath this route.



Comments on Flake Traverse Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 11, 2002

This is definitely NOT a V4. Maybe a V2...probably a V1+

By Anonymous Coward
Nov 7, 2002

I agree, the flake is defnitely not a V4, V1+ sounds about right. Thats what I figure, the hardest problem I've ever finished was V2, and that was harder than the flake.

By Karl Royer
Jul 16, 2003

The crux is a VERY slipery left hand slopper/pinch grip that is a difficult hold if your hand is not large, and it is a loooong layback/reach for shorter climbers. V-3 seems like a reasonable rating.

By Anonymous Coward
Jul 19, 2003

Didnt anyone read the "don't be a jerk" guideline? V1+? Give me a f'n break. Downrating it after you have it wired is poor form.

By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Jul 20, 2003

You guys CAN vote on the ratings, which will upgrade it or downgrade it. You can also vote on the stars for the route. From the "comment form", which is reached by clicking on "add a comment" on any route, click on advanced. This give you tons of ways that you can directly change how the route is rated on the site.

By Matt Andrews
Jul 22, 2003



  • **

v-3

By Jonathan
Aug 4, 2003

this problem all depends on height. when i was first working on it i was about 5' 3" but i made up some short people beta which was about a V3. now i can do the normal way, which i think, if you can make the reach easily is about a V2. but all of the problems at Indian Rock are debateable. they are all eliminates which makes them all very height dependant.

By Tavis Ricksecker
From: Bishop, ca
Mar 13, 2007
rating: V2 5+

Some variations for you to have fun with, if youre bored with the flake...

-Try sit-starting way down and right around the corner by the stairs, and don't touch the big ledges under the flake!
-For the crux move, go to the ear instead of the flat edge of the jed-clampett hold (easier if you can reach.)
-Gaston on the snatch hold instead of using the jed-clampett hold (the same difficulty but it looks cooler)

And for the record id say v1 for a tall person reaching all the way to the ear, v2 using the standard beta, v3 if you start way around right and dont use the big ledges at all.

By roberts.chris
From: Falls Church, VA
Dec 22, 2008
rating: V3-4 6A+

compared to the other Indian rock v-2s this route is WAY harder. I aced a lot of the easy routes, but this one took some time to get. I would say this is at least a solid v-3.

By Caliza
Jan 3, 2014
rating: V3 6A

If you're tall with a decent ape index you're going to be able to bypass the crux like my friend did, but for us shorter folks you gotta commit to the crux. Maybe in the Buttermilks it'd be a V2 but in Berkeley it's def a V3