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Sound of One Finger Bleeding, The 

Flake Route 

5.9-

   
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Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
FA: Mike Dunn, John Fain - 1987
Submitted By: saxfiend on Mar 1, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Denmark cruises up the namesake feature of the Fla...

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Description 

Fun route, with excellent protection and interesting moves. Rated 5.9 by the Dixie Cragger's Atlas, it's soft for the grade, but worthwhile nevertheless.

Work your way up a huge left-facing flake, using the flake itself or the crack between it and the main wall. When the flake ends, follow the face above and surmount an overhang with great holds, then continue up the face to the top.


Location 

Starts about five minutes down the trail from the Lucky Strikes area; you'll pass two dangerous spots where the trail is cut by a v-notch in the cliff. The first is protected by a safety cable, but the second isn't, so proceed carefully. Flake Route starts just past the second cleft.


Protection 

Medium gear; nuts and cams up to #2 Camalot or the like. Build a gear anchor and/or sling a tree at the top.



Photos of Flake Route Slideshow Add Photo
Getting started on the Flake Route.  Great lead!

Getting started on the Flake Route. Great lead!


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By Alan Brock
From: Riceville, TN
Oct 2, 2012
rating: 5.9-

Fun route that protects very well and always seems to have good holds. No real crux. DCA lists it as 5.9, but it's VERY soft for that grade; 5.8 at best. By far the most dangerous part of the climb is crossing the chasm just before the climb starts. Be careful and consider anchoring in your belayer!