Flake Roof  5.11

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.11 [details] FA:  ? Submitted By:  Russ Walling on Oct 17, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: True Grip and Flake Roof

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Description 

This mini showstopper has seen plenty of action and spit off more than a few of them. The easy looking dihedral is more awkward than you would think, and the roof move is, well, very roofy. If you can unlock the secret to the circus type moves that get you over the lip, it might just feel like hard 5.10. If you botch it, it will probably feel like 5.12. For most leaders, it will clock in at mid 5.11.

Location 

The Flake Roof is the obvious roof in the back of the Peverted Sanctuary. The start is in the big left facing dihedral with bolt protection. After doing the Flake Roof, you can continue up from the anchors and join True Grip to finish off the wall. Down climb to climbers left from the summit, cutting over to the Front Side before you hit the Laguna Prieta.

Protection 

5 bolts, three under/on the roof and one or maybe two over. Two bolt anchor back from the lip about 15ft.