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Flake Out 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Marc Beverly, Timy Fairfield, Brandi Proffitt, and Jenna Lupia
Page Views: 1,749
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Aug 9, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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Allison getting ready to pull through the crux of ...

Description 

Great route that would deserve more stars if it were not for the scary fall factor! Watch the wall as you make the crux move using the crimper into the dish! Also, watch where your feet are in relation to the rope, it could make for a bad fall. Route is mellow except for the crux move discussed above.

Location 

Left side of the crag. Start in the dihedral and power through a short boulder problem, with easier slab climbing above, then the crux.

Protection 

7 bolts to anchors.


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 24, 2014
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
May 30, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

CONDITION REPORT 
The fifth bolt is missing its hanger. Normally I'd have fixed this but didn't have a nut that fit the bolt. I'll work to fix it next time I'm out there. Given the issues with many of the bolts/hangers on this route, I'm inclined to rebolt the entire route, actually.
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Sep 17, 2006
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Enjoyable and long route. Crux around the 6th bolt but is protected well. I can attest to the fall at the crux being clean! =) I've seen it done a number of different ways. Being 6'5", I grab the arete on the right but others mantle up on thin feet.

Listed as route #2 on route topo photo for Las Conchas Gateway Rock.
By Allison Fritz
From: Los Alamos, New Mexico
Oct 19, 2006
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I agree, the crux is at the 6th bolt. Fun route!
By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Jun 14, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Fun climb, but not 5.11c IMO. (I say that because I'm not onsighting 11c and I onsighted this, which made me feel like a rockstar when I saw the rating! Maybe I just got lucky???) Bottom move is bouldery if the direct approach is taken; an easier alternative lies to the right, then it's mellow up to the crux, a move of 11, then 5.10 climbing after that.
By Matt Price
Nov 5, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I also think that the crux of this route comes at the last bolt. The moves I make for the mantle feel 5.10 at most.
By Williampenner
From: The 505
Apr 27, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I do not know if the current anchors are what the first ascension team put on there but they are currently crap--1/4" diameter quick links with a breaking strength of less than 800 pounds I would bet. Next time I am out there I will replace them. If anyone else gets there first, bring a wrench and put some real hardware on there before someone who does not know any better craters while TRing directly through the anchors. Someone was way too stingy with the anchor setup and needs to replace the crux bolt.
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Apr 27, 2008
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

William, I definitely agree with you there and have been meaning to fix these anchors with some quality Fixe hardware donated by NMCRAG. I hope to do this soon but if you'd like to remove the 1/4" links up there ASAP, that would be great.
By Devin C.
Jun 9, 2009

Caution: 6/8/09 I was warned by other climbers that the hangers on the top half of this rout were loose! One person said that the nut was not even finger tight one one bolt. So be aware and maybe carry a wrench if you plan to climb this route.
By Ethan Coon
Jul 4, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Actually all the bolts on this are a little crusty... starting to develop some corosion or something in addition to being a little wimpier than the usual bomber bolts. The one protecting the crux isn't all that tight either, and the nature of the positioning is such that a good fall off the crux would pull as much out of the wall as straight down. I definitely didn't want to roll off the crux onto that bolt.

That said, the crux is a great move, I was doing it with a super high (scary) heel-hook on the arete, turning the crimp into a mantle (short-kid beta). Agreed with the poster who said 11c was a little, well, generous... I'd put this at 11a at hardest. I can also attest that, with the exception of the last two moves, this stays bone dry in the rain...
By Steve DiMarino
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jun 4, 2010
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Some nuts can use tightening again as of 6-5-10. I am not saying that it is unsafe, like the studs are going to rip out, just that the nuts are loose and whoever climbs it next should bring a wrench.

I agree that the climb is in the 5.10 range. Maybe 5.10b or c.
By J tot
From: Tempe, AZ
Jul 8, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The last bolt is still gone. Expect about 15~20 feet runout to the anchors. Not hard, but mentally taxing as you make moves onto an over hanging exposed arete. Especially when the bolts look kinda dinky.

My belayer actually saw the last bolt laying in the dirt and didn't say anything to me as I was climbing. I'm glad because it would have freaked me out.
By MikeZ
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jul 19, 2010
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

The 7th bolt is still missing as of July 7th, 2010... the runout isn't terribly difficult but a fall from anywhere above where the 7th bolt used to be would be a recipe for broken bones with the way the rock below is.
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 20, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Seriously, the entire bolt pulled out? Or did just the hanger come off? Is it an empty hole in the rock now? Wild.
By MikeZ
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jul 21, 2010
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

The entire bolt (#7) was pulled out.
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 22, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I was able to use the existing hole on bolt 7 since the previous bolt had come clean out. I just drilled it bigger for the 1/2" bolt. I'd never seen threaded glue-ins like that and I'm not sold on 'em. As you tighten the nut on the hanger the torque is trying to pull the bolt out and the only resistance is the glue. Personally, I'd be happier with a wedge or sleeve bolt more than I would this setup.

That said, I took a crow bar to bolt 6 (the one at the crux) and worked for 15 to 20 minutes to get it out. Based on how easily bolt 7 had slid out, I figured bolt 6 would come clean out too. It pulled out about 1/2"" before it sheered. So the bolts are definitely plenty strong and I'd trust them for this application. I do wonder about the longevity of the glue, though. But I've never used glue-ins.

So anyway, I counter-sunk the old stud and drilled a new hole for bolt 6. I used 3" x 1/2" SS sleeve bolts for the replacements.
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jun 8, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Even though the 5th bolt has no hanger currently- it's nothing to worry about. The climbing there is easy and the bolt below is still close. Guessing someone will replace it soon anyway, but don't avoid this climb in the interim. If you can climb the start, the missing bolt won't bother you.
By Nathan Kofahl
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jun 23, 2014

I attempted to climb this one this weekend. The crux had me a little bamboozled and after taking a pretty ugly fall on my best attempt at getting up/around the block, I decided to leave it for another day. Looking at the route photo now I can see that it looks like there is a bolt missing just below the crux which is probably part of why the fall was a bit more than I felt comfortable with.

Is the sequence really to use the holds on the far (left side) of the block to work your feet up so that you can grab the finger crack with your right hand and then mantle off the hold on the bottom of the block to get your feet up on the nose of the block?

I'm not sure I was approaching this correctly and I think i needed another 3-5 inches higher on my mantle to get my foot on the block.
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jun 23, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Hey Nathan, I don't think the bolt protecting the crux is missing (it was there a few weeks ago when I last climbed the route.) As I recall it's just below the crux bulge. I replaced that bolt a few years ago with a higher-quality 1/2" bolt after the original, weird bolt had taken a beating from falls.
It is a bit of a fall but a clean fall, if I recall correctly. Allison (the one pictured here) does the crux by getting her right hand in the crack and laying it back to get above the bulge. I'm too tall for that beta so I reach our right to the arete and a hidden right foot near the arete to power up over the bulge with my left hand in the crack. I've also seen people go really far left and kind of avoid the bulge but that fall would be nasty.
By Nathan Kofahl
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jun 23, 2014

Jason, thanks for the beta on the crux. Unless I'm really turned around, the bolt pictured in this photo dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/18... that i've drawn a box around isn't there.

I think that one is the one I was thinking was protecting the crux, but you're right there is another bolt right by her hip that is the one I fell to. I had to look a little more closely at the picture. I remember having to yard back up to it and then get a little slack to get my left foot into the area under the block.

It was late in the day and my fall twisted me around a bit. To your point, it was a clean.

I need to find that hidden right foot next time I give this one a go.

Thanks again!
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jun 24, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Oh, yes, Nathan, that fifth bolt is missing its hanger currently. I've been meaning to replace the hanger but haven't been back up there yet. Hope it goes well for you next time!