This route ascends a beautiful right facing flake to a ledge with an anchor. Lots of laybacking, but with good rests and gear.
This route is right in the middle of Sector 5 and starts at a block at the base of the wall. The obvious flake is directly above the block.
A set of cams should be about all you need to 3" or maybe 3.5".
BETA PHOTO: The crack going up through the roof is the second ...
|By Austin Badeau|
Nov 4, 2007
Flake Crack is a great route. One thing I might recommend is doubles of #1, 2, 3 Camalots and a #4 Camalot. This would allow you to do the first 110-130 ft in one nice long pitch. Many people say not to do the 2nd pitch. But do not confuse the second pitch for the nice crack that angles up and to the right and then up through a roof. Although there is a bolted anchor after the end of the classic flake, the first pitch does not technically end here. The poor second pitch is the gully up past the roof. Definitely have a go at the second half of the 1st pitch. Use bolt plates or wires on two carrots at the end of the pitch for an anchor and then walk to the right and use the rap chains on Angular Crack to get off in one 28 meter rappel.