Flailing in the breeze  5.11a PG13

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Consensus:  5.10c/d [details] FA:  Nathan Brown, Phil York New Route:  Yes Season:  winter Submitted By:  nbrown on Nov 16, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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2013 Closures MORE INFO >>> Big Lost Cove Cliffs are closed to climbing due to the local falcon population This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This route climbs the white face up and left of "Nuclear arms". It has recently been upgraded with a bolt protecting the starting moves instead of the tree.

P-1 Climb "Nuclear arms" up to the lower rap tree and belay.

P-2 Start above the tree on the ramp and clip a low bolt (the original line used to climb up the tree and sling the top for pro and then step back down to the face holds out right). Crank long moves on good holds up and left to easier climbing and the second bolt. Move up and slightly right, continuing up the thin face past 3 more bolts, interspersed with a couple small pieces of gear (5.10ish). There is a 2 bolt anchor for the belay (100' back to rap tree, which is 100' to ground).

P-3 continue up the face above (not the bolt out right, which is another option) wandering around to get gear, eventually ending up on the large ledge with the 2 nut rap anchor of "Sugaree". This is a worthwhile 5.8 pitch with an unknown FA history. It is right at 100' to get back to the bolt anchor.

Location 

Start either in "Nuclear arms", or skip this pitch by climbing the 4th class ramp to the belay/rap tree. This ramp starts out just to the right of the start for "Flapping in the breeze".

Protection 

Cams up to yellow TCU. A few small RP's for above the last bolt.