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 ADVANCED
Gemstone West
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Broken Ladders  T 
Christian Crack T 
Fin Left, The T 
Flail Out T 
Gemstone T 
Green Snake - P2 T 
Pair of 4s T 
Seamingly Hard T 
Shoots & Ladders T 

Flail Out 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 697
Submitted By: Bill Lawry on Sep 6, 2008

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Eric G working it out. Camera courtesy of Howard ...

Description 

Starting beneath the snout of rock, navigate to the left side and up over loose plates. The line continues up the obvious crack in solid granite. About 3/4 of the way up is a 2 or 3 inch chockstone after which the difficulty of the climbing eases. Continue to a gear belay near the top of the first pitch of Gemstone. From there, we continued up the route Christian Crack.

The old Loucks' guide rates both this route and Gemstone as 5.9. This route is more sustained than P2 of Gemstone.

Location 

Hike to climber's left past the overhanging aid boulder and continue about 3/4 of the way to Gemstone route. See a marked up version of Monomaniac's photo on the Gemstone West page.

Protection 

Standard rack up to 3+ inches. I used a fairly open BD C4 #3 just below the chockstone; a 3.5 would probably have been perfect. Not far below that I used a BD C4 #4.



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