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Flagstone 


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Elevation: 4,100'
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Administrators: Peter Franzen, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Karsten on Feb 13, 2006

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Robbie leading hydrotube

Description 

Flagstone is a beautiful rock found just off a forest service backroad in the Oregon wilderness. Originally discovered in the mid 1980's, this crag remained a "locals only" crag for many years. In recent years sadly the rock has become littered with an ungodly amount of bolts. More than a few climbers are outraged, including many of the original pioneers of the crag. Still, the crag has several nice lines.

The rock has three aspects facing North, East, and West. A trail skirts the entire rock and can be used as a walk-off descent from the top. The rock is andesite and of high quality. The best climbs combine friction, edges, and balance together on dark grey rock. At times the place can be secluded and other times you'll feel cramped. Since it is a small place be courteous.


Getting There 

From I-5 and Eugene take highway 126 east for about 35-40 miles. Really watch the odometer and look for a sign on the right for Quartz Creek Road. Turn onto a narrow road and go over a narrow bridge. This road becomes a forest road #2618. Enjoy viewing clearcuts for the next 14.5 miles and taking a right fork at milepost 11, a left fork at milepost 13. At the junction of 2618 and 350 stay right for another 1/8th of a mile and park in a pullout on the right side of the road. The crag is up and to the left.

Although somewhat obscured from the road there is a climbers trail that leads past a message board and up to the crag (5min)


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Flagstone:
Acne Problem   5.7     Sport, 2 pitches, 180 feet   Hydrotube Area
Hydrotube   5.8+     Sport, 2 pitches, 100 feet   Hydrotube Area
Deep Pockets   5.9     Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet   Walts Wall
Paradicey   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch   Walts Wall
Browse More Classics in Flagstone

Featured Route For Flagstone
Brooklyn Gose and Brett Bauer on pitch 2 of The Malediction Route (Hexed). pitch 2 of Northern Lights is just to the left, and Twisted Friction/ pitch 3 of Egos and Friction is just to the right.

Northern Lights 5.9  OR : Flagstone : NW Corner
If your introducing climbing to a friend, this is a great climb to do so! Pitch 1: Climb the slab past a few 5.8 moves (crux) in the lower section then its a fun haul to the anchors. Pitch 2: Very fun climbing almost gym like on sustained .8/.9. Easy single rope rappels from both sets of chains....[more]   Browse More Classics in OR


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By Aaron Hobson
Administrator
From: Las Cruces, NM
Mar 20, 2006

While I was working in the Willamette national forest (summer 2003 and 2004), I climbed here a number of times, but I never learned much about the routes. I taught several friends of mine the joys of multi-pitch climbing on one of the "easy" and exhaustively bolted climbs on the northern slabs. Despite the small size of the crag, it has a great selection climbs.

By Kevin W. Corcoran
From: Portland, Oregon
Oct 16, 2008

Flagstone is a very nice crag in a beautiful, secluded setting. The season there is fairly short, as the crag gets significant snowfall in the colder months. It is usually late Spring or Summer by the time the road melts out. For route beta, check out Rock Climbing Western Oregon: Willamette Valley.

By Ian G.
From: PDX, OR
May 18, 2009

I went to college in Eugene and climbed several times at Flagstone. The climbing is not world class, but the setting is. I have fond memories of topping out a route as the sun was setting behind the forested hills. I've travelled all over the world and nowhere is as beautiful as Oregon in the summer. If you are travelling through the area, give this place a chance. It's also...ahem..."well-bolted."