2014 Update: Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and all seasonal raptor closure areas on U.S. Forest Service land will be re-opened August 1, 2014 for climbing.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Pitch1: Walk right from Where's Ray along a ledge to a yellow/orange lichen corner. Place a green Alien, and traverse right and up on easy rock to the first bolt. Place a blue Alien before the 2nd bolt and clip three more bolts as the rock gets steeper. Crux at last bolt. Fun climbing on small positive edges.
Pitch2: (12/15/2006) Face climb up past 2 bolts and follow easy climbing to a 3rd bolt (crux). Small wire may be placed and climb up and left to 4th bolt and anchors above. May be climbed as 1 pitch.
Pitch3: (3/14/2007) When doing the 3rd pitch, you should belay at the 2nd belay of the Bihedral Arete. Climb just right of the belay (red Alien and small wire to protect a hard start), then follow 6 bolts to the new anchor slightly higher (and more comfortable) than the anchor for the Bihedral Arete. Crux is at the last 2 bolts.
My father lasted 19 days on Iwo Jima before being injured.
Got to lead the third pitch two days after it was put up. Thought it was a real nice pitch and certainly more than well worth doing. Echo Ron's words of good job to Greg and Kent. Have to admit though to wimping out a bit at the start and heading left for a bit. Somehow casting off into the unknown thin crack only protected by a small wire nut with the fall consequence being onto the anchor, it didn't seem like a good idea at the time, but next time!
I had to get out today after not climbing outside for 5 weeks. I self-belayed this just beating the rain. I did it as one pitch at about 200' with a few feet to spare. The distance is not accurate, because I was using my shortened 70m which is approximately but not exactly 60m. The P1 crux took me a long time. Tried to the right, straight up, to the left. Repeat. I eventually climbed to the right of the bolts. There is one hard move on each of P2 and P3, with the P3 move right off the ledge.
Climbed today and only placed gear on the first pitch. Gear could be placed starting the third pitch, but it is not absolutely necessary.
By James Hicks From: Denver, CO Jan 20, 2014 rating: 5.10a/b6a+19VI+19E2 5b
I should have paid closer attention to the route description.... Got up it with no gear, and it's doable that way, not that I can recommend anyone do it though. Just make sure and keep your wits about you, because a fall before clipping the first bolt or while below the second bolt could be quite bad without any gear in the crack. It's not super difficult, but it does get a bit thin.