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Flag Mountain Falls T 
Granite Peak Smear T 

Flag Mountain Falls 

WI4-5

   
Type:  Trad, Ice, 4 pitches, 600', Grade III
Original: WI4-5 [details]
FA: Miles N. and partner?
Page Views: 422
Submitted By: eDixon on Feb 24, 2014

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The final pillar.

Description 

This is the large, two-tiered waterfall off to the east of the trail. It comes down a western aspect near Flag Mountain. Anyone who has hiked the Pine River trail out to the Pope's Nose has seen it. It is a really fun ice climb in a remote and scenic location.

P1 & P2 climb the lower falls. It is about 300' in total. There are trees all along the right side for anchors and this section can be broken up as desired. We did it in one long pitch with an 80m rope and some simul-climbing. (WI3/4)

From the top of the lower falls, follow the creek bed (about 5 minutes) to the upper falls.

P3 - Climb moderate ice to a nice stance at the base of the final pillar on the right (~100', WI3).

P4 - Climb steep ice for maybe 40m, then about 20m of lower-angle ice to some trees. (200', WI4/5)

Descent - Rappel the route using trees and/or v-threads.

Location 

Follow the Pine River trail for about 9 miles. Flag Mountain Falls will be obvious off to the right (east). Find a nice place to cross the river and continue straight to the ice.

Rock Climbing Photo: Approach to Flag Mountain Falls.
Approach to Flag Mountain Falls.


Protection 

Screws.


Photos of Flag Mountain Falls Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: First view of falls on the approach.
First view of falls on the approach.
Rock Climbing Photo: At the base of the lower falls. It is much bigger ...
At the base of the lower falls. It is much bigger ...
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the Pine River trail.
View from the Pine River trail.
Rock Climbing Photo: After crossing the river.
After crossing the river.
Rock Climbing Photo: Approaching the upper falls. It is taller than it ...
Approaching the upper falls. It is taller than it ...

Comments on Flag Mountain Falls Add Comment
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By -mn
Mar 1, 2014

A friend and I climbed this in the '90s, during one of the dry winters. We walked in there with our tennies and bivied under a large spruce tree. Don't remember much except leading the last pitch with a broken tool. A nice spot in the winter - moose, solitude, Pope's Nose just north.... - miles

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