|Black Widow Slab
This is the sport climb immediately right of Pipe Dreams. According to Rolofson's guide, the oh-so-clever name of the route is a response to the ACE FHRC's rejection of the FAists' new route application at Eldo.... (Rumor has it that these same FAists were players in the late-90s ice farming controversy).
As for the route itself, I think it is among the best on the crag. If it weren't for the ledge soon after the start, it might deserve 3 stars. The crux of the route felt like the start. Get a good spot or stick-clip the first bolt, and mantle onto the route. Tricky climbing gains a rest ledge. From the rest ledge, the route becomes a sustained arete/face affair that leads to the top.
12 or so bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
|By stephen sangdahl|
Jul 14, 2005
As for the naming of this route, [Rolofson] would like you to believe that we named it as some sort of slag about the [Eldo ACE committee (he has had his "moments" with the committee), but this is not the reason we named it "fuck you", it was a spur of the moment joking around while getting "baked" at the base of the route that one of our party uttered the phrase and it stuck. There were more people involved in the establishment of this route than [John] and myself.
|By Kevin Neilson|
Sep 1, 2009
This is a fun route with a wide variety of moves. Stick-clipping isn't necessary, but not a bad idea. If you're tall enough, you don't have to mess around with the jugs below and can get holds high and levitate your feet. Getting out of the dihedral after the second bolt is probably the crux. The dihedral can be stemmed or the dihedral's left arete laybacked. The arete/face above requires some thought.
|By Dwight Jugornot|
From: Arvada, Co.
Aug 14, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a
Great variety and fun moves. I felt the crux was higher. Traversing out past the chalky, sloping pillar on the final face. Took an excellent whip here! Getting out of the low dihedral at bolt 3 is easy but reach-dependent.