F**k You 5.11c
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11c [details] |
| FA: | Sangdahl & Baldwin [and others] |
| Submitted By: | Anonymous Coward on Jul 7, 2005 |
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Brian on F**ck You.
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Description This is the sport climb immediately right of Pipe Dreams. According to Rolofson's guide, the oh-so-clever name of the route is a response to the ACE FHRC's rejection of the FAists' new route application at Eldo.... (Rumor has it that these same FAists were players in the late-90s ice farming controversy).
As for the route itself, I think it is among the best on the crag. If it weren't for the ledge soon after the start, it might deserve 3 stars. The crux of the route felt like the start. Get a good spot or stick-clip the first bolt, and mantle onto the route. Tricky climbing gains a rest ledge. From the rest ledge, the route becomes a sustained arete/face affair that leads to the top.
Protection 12 or so bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
By stephen sangdahl
Jul 14, 2005
| As for the naming of this route, [Rolofson] would like you to believe that we named it as some sort of slag about the [Eldo ACE committee (he has had his "moments" with the committee), but this is not the reason we named it "fuck you", it was a spur of the moment joking around while getting "baked" at the base of the route that one of our party uttered the phrase and it stuck. There were more people involved in the establishment of this route than [John] and myself. |
By Kevin Neilson
From: Boulder
Sep 1, 2009
| This is a fun route with a wide variety of moves. Stick-clipping isn't necessary, but not a bad idea. If you're tall enough, you don't have to mess around with the jugs below and can get holds high and levitate your feet. Getting out of the dihedral after the second bolt is probably the crux. The dihedral can be stemmed or the dihedral's left arete laybacked. The arete/face above requires some thought. |
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