Five Years After 5.9 PG13
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Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. MORE INFO >>>
The remainder are on US Forest Service land. A map detailing the public areas can be obtained from the ranger station en route to the rocks from the village of Tres Piedras.
According to Jan Studebaker: "The property line runs from approximately the current east corner by the access gate in a straight line over the top of South Rock to the top middle of the Chicken Heads/Mosaic Wall mount, and from there west down the mount slope to the meadow just south of the Alley climbs. Some of the most popular routes are completely on private property. There are survey markers on the top of South rock (the mysterious aluminum stake stuck in the rock) and on top of the Mosaic rock (most of the time buried in water in a pot hole.)"
A new online Tres Piedras Route Guide from LA Mountaineers has been updated with the latest access information, and should be read by all Tres Piedras climbers. Group climb leaders, and Climbing Directors (future or past) should take particular note. From the guide:
Access Notes: Tres Piedras climbers should sign the waiver found on this page because the popular South Rock is mostly on private land, as is some of the access to the area. The landowner, requests a waiver, NO fires, no chalk and "please close any gates".
In order to nurture greater landowner acceptance of climbers, participants of group climbs are requested to organize quick clean up activities before leaving the area; this should include the climbing area as well as the access roads (trip leaders could supply plastic grocery bags). Small parties should practice "leave no trace" principles.
On August 19, 2009 the landowner stated: "Yes I still own the property, and yes I'd still like to have waivers on hand - even or perhaps especially from your organization. Only once in awhile do I have problems with climbers, mostly not picking up after themselves. My biggest gripe is that despite repeated requests, the climbers don't remove protection (edit: colored webbing, shiny hardware) from the climbing routes, which is both lazy and unattractive. Your organization could do me a big favor by doing a group climb and removing the crap that others have left on the various routes so that it is both a pristine part of the landscape, and so that each climber must figure out his own route without relying on the handiwork of others."
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description The first half of 5 Years After is a popular sport and toprope climb at TP.
Climb Chicken Shit to a ledge, or scramble up 3rd class to its left. Continue up on solid flakes and positive holds to a 2-bolt anchor. It's 5.8 with closely spaced bolts up to this point; the 2nd bolt is not visible until it's at your nose. Most people lower from this anchor, but they are missing out. The adventurous can continue up a seldom-climbed and runout face (5.9 somewhat runout, at first, then easier above) between big flakes to the top of the rock. If you plan on continuing to the top, don't belay at the anchor, combine it into a single 190' pitch.
Location The face left of Chicken Heads and right of Dirty Diagonal. The 2 bolt anchor is obvious. Lower from that anchor with 1 rope, or walk off to the right if you top out.
Protection 2 bolts to the 2 bolt anchor midway up. If you stop here, only 4 quickdraws are needed (5 quickdraws, if starting with Chicken Shit).
If you plan on topping out, you'll need some gear to build an anchor up high at the top, and a light rack of cams and nuts to 3", including micros, to get there.
| Comments on Five Years After |
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By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 19, 2009
| That's pretty cool to see TP on the cover of Climbing. But what's up with tilting the photo that much when you can see the horizon? :-) Or that just a super wide angle shot? I look forward to seeing the issue. |
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Aug 19, 2009
| No, it does not look like a super wide angle shot. The frame is definitely tilted to make it look steep and the anchor is partially hidden behind the title to make what is a descent route look like a steeper, longer plated granite 5.9. |
By Williampenner
From: The 505
Aug 19, 2009
| I agree with Lee, poor photographic form. It is even funnier when all they had to do was photograph Techweenie or its 5.11 siblings for a true, vertical, plated-granite route that needs no tilting to do it justice.
Having read the article, I also question Matt's assessment of Clean Green Dream as the Solid Gold of TP and Serpentine Face as the Figures on a Landscape of TP. Figures is phenomenal and sustained and Serpentine is just pretty good with a really short crux; no real comparison. I can't fault Samet too much, he grew up in NM and like those of us who have lived here for a while, the perspective gets skewed. It must be the water from Los Alamos that does it. Articles about NM never seem to do it justice, which is good for keeping crowds away.
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By Eric Whitbeck
Jun 18, 2012
| Oh come on William and you know Semen Girl is the Astroman of northern NM. |
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