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By GhaMby
From Heaven
Feb 21, 2013
climbingreport.com/gear-review...

Sounds sweet!

Anyone know when these leather beauties will be available. Will they come in 13 & 14's???

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By frankstoneline
Feb 21, 2013
glad you posted this, I've been curious about these since they showed up on that ad. Sounds like my beloved galileo's got a facelift.

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By Mat Hosford
From Riverside
Feb 21, 2013
Joshua tree
I believe there is a slipper version as well!

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By frankstoneline
Feb 21, 2013
Mhosfo wrote:
I believe there is a slipper version as well!


whaaaa??!! be still my heart.

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By GhaMby
From Heaven
Feb 21, 2013
There is a slipper, Velcro and a laceup! The Slipper & Velcro are LEATHER!!! The Laceup is synthetic :(

fiveten.com/community/blog-det...

Here's a pic of all three. I think they are rather stupid looking with the flames, but if they climb well while remaining comfortable I'll live with it.

lamacycles.com/en/five-ten/cli...

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By frankstoneline
Feb 21, 2013
sweagan wrote:
There is a slipper, Velcro and a laceup! The Slipper & Velcro are LEATHER!!! The Laceup is synthetic :(


Wish the slipper were synthetic. I would argue that a synthetic laceup is basically going to be the same as the blanco's (which are plenty stiff)

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By GhaMby
From Heaven
Feb 21, 2013
I have owned several pair of synthetic slippers (Evolv and Five Ten), I hated both pair, I much prefer the leather Sportiva Cobra and Five Ten Mocasym. Leather slippers conform to my feet in a way that synthetic doesn't, also they don't stink like synthetic (especially the early evolvs).

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By frankstoneline
Feb 21, 2013
sweagan wrote:
I have owned several pair of synthetic slippers (Evolv and Five Ten), I hated both pair, I much prefer the leather Sportiva Cobra and Five Ten Mocasym. Leather slippers conform to my feet in a way that synthetic doesn't, also they don't stink like synthetic (especially the early evolvs).


I generally have pretty sweaty feet, and I had a pair of the primes that didnt ever get funky. They couldnt heel hook for shit though. Lined leather might be ok, I just get kind of frustrated by moccs that go from aggressive to flat foot in 6 months no matter how small i buy them.

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By GhaMby
From Heaven
Feb 21, 2013
I don't expect slippers to be aggressive, or at least stay aggressive. That's what synthetic velcros are for, like the Sportiva Solution. I like that an unlined slipper conforms to my foot and allows me to use my foot and toe muscles to 'grab' at holds, I also like simple shoes like the mocasym for indian creek style climbing, where having a bunch of rubber around flat toes helps me climb well without destroying laces or velcros.

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By frankstoneline
Feb 21, 2013
sweagan wrote:
I don't expect slippers to be aggressive, or at least stay aggressive. That's what synthetic velcros are for, like the Sportiva Solution. I like that an unlined slipper conforms to my foot and allows me to use my foot and toe muscles to 'grab' at holds, I also like simple shoes like the mocasym for indian creek style climbing, where having a bunch of rubber around flat toes helps me climb well without destroying laces or velcros.


By aggressive I just mean my toes stay curled up. I feel like I buy moccs in a size i can barely get my foot in when they are new (~3 sizes down from street) and after 6 months my toes are flat in em, but I get what you're saying about slipper use. Really I just want the blue Anasazi slippers back.

Edited to add: the laceups are called Hombres? I'm in for a pair on the name alone...

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By GhaMby
From Heaven
Feb 21, 2013
I'm not sure what to think of a shoe called the 'desperadoes'. I buy shoes for the exact opposite feeling.

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By frankstoneline
Feb 21, 2013
I'm not sure what to think of that gimmicky stitching pattern. The only place I want that is on my going out shirts and the pockets of my jeans.

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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
Feb 21, 2013
frankstoneline wrote:
I would argue that a synthetic laceup is basically going to be the same as the blanco's (which are plenty stiff)



Nah, it's built on a different last. You'll also notice the rand rubber is higher over the smaller toes than the "normal" ansazi. Basically similar to the Arrowhead rand, and a dealbreaker for me. That rand design puts the top edge of the rand rubber directly on the apex of my bent toes, and is annoying as all get out. It's like having a tiny pebble in your shoe (which is why I can't/don't wear arrowheads) and hurts.

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By frankstoneline
Feb 21, 2013
Will S wrote:
Nah, it's built on a different last. You'll also notice the rand rubber is higher over the smaller toes than the "normal" ansazi. Basically similar to the Arrowhead rand, and a dealbreaker for me. That rand design puts the top edge of the rand rubber directly on the apex of my bent toes, and is annoying as all get out. It's like having a tiny pebble in your shoe (which is why I can't/don't wear arrowheads) and hurts.


You are more observant than I. I simply meant it was another flat lasted, stiff synthetic laceup

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By Stone Nude
Feb 21, 2013
When dumb people have disposable income, hilarity ...
Good god, I thought I was a shoe whore. Epic....

Sweagan you have some imelda issues, broseephus. Not criticizing, just saying the consistency is amazing.

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By frankstoneline
Feb 21, 2013
Killing In The Name Of wrote:
Good god, I thought I was a shoe whore. Epic.... Sweagan you have some imelda issues, broseephus. Not criticizing, just saying the consistency is amazing.


Weren't you just looking for a pair of stiff edging shoes?

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By GhaMby
From Heaven
Feb 21, 2013
Killing In The Name Of wrote:
Good god, I thought I was a shoe whore. Epic.... Sweagan you have some imelda issues, broseephus. Not criticizing, just saying the consistency is amazing.


Dude, I just happen to like shoes, I'm hoping that if I find the right pair then I can actually climb hard and won't be scared on long runouts. That's what I take away from all the advertising.

Actually I'm just in search of a shoe that actually fits my big ass feet comfortably and doesn't hold me back from pushing my limits. size 13 or 14...

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By Rob Lilley
From Greensboro, NC
Feb 22, 2013
Bouldering at Stanage Edge, England.
frankstoneline wrote:
You are more observant than I. I simply meant it was another flat lasted, stiff synthetic laceup


They aren't though, the lace ups are the softest, the slipper the stiffest and the velcro somewhere in between.



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By GhaMby
From Heaven
Feb 22, 2013
The lace up is the softest? That's odd. I do want to check out the slippers.

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By Rob Lilley
From Greensboro, NC
Feb 22, 2013
Bouldering at Stanage Edge, England.
sweagan wrote:
The lace up is the softest? That's odd. I do want to check out the slippers.


Yeah, the logic behind it is sound though, the laces allow you to crank the shoe tight where you want it to and properly hug the shape of your foot, being synthetic it also won't stretch and bag out the way Moccs do. The stiff sole of the slipper should also help reduce the bag-out factor as well, seems sensible to me!

I'll probably be picking up a pair of the velcro's once they're available for multi-pitch granite slab smearing adventures, a moderately stiff shoe with a flat toe profile should be money.

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By GhaMby
From Heaven
Feb 22, 2013
Rob Lilley

Have you tried these on yet? How does the heel compare to the Anasazi VCS? I like the way the front half of my Anasazi's climb but the heel does not conform to my foot and will typically pop off if I heel hook hard.

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By frankstoneline
Feb 22, 2013
sweagan wrote:
Rob Lilley Have you tried these on yet? How does the heel compare to the Anasazi VCS? I like the way the front half of my Anasazi's climb but the heel does not conform to my foot and will typically pop off if I heel hook hard.


I had a similar problem till i sized down a half size, I didnt fill the heel very well, but didnt think i could go down a size and ended up buying a used pair a half size down on a whim one day, same front fit, better heel fit.

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By Davis Stevenson
From Flagstaff, Arizona
Feb 22, 2013
Following up a new route out in the Mojave Desert....
They aren't though, the lace ups are the softest, the slipper the stiffest and the velcro somewhere in between.





I could go for a pair of stiff slippers... love how comfy my Mocs have become over the last couple of years but they are WAY. TOO. SOFT.

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By Rob Lilley
From Greensboro, NC
Feb 23, 2013
Bouldering at Stanage Edge, England.
sweagan wrote:
Rob Lilley Have you tried these on yet? How does the heel compare to the Anasazi VCS? I like the way the front half of my Anasazi's climb but the heel does not conform to my foot and will typically pop off if I heel hook hard.


I haven't, but I'm told that the heel on the Stonelands range is a lower volume one than the Anasazi. The Anasazi heel is is a real love/hate thing, it fits some people fine and is truly dire for others.

I think that one of the problems is that Five Ten woefully downplay the amount the Anasazi's stretch which leads to people buying them too big and leaving dead space in the heel area. Seeing as the Stonelands models are supposed to be more of a comfort shoe there will be less expectation for the customer to be sizing down radically for a tight fit, so the heel volume will be more in line with the forefoot.

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By Larry S
Mar 2, 2013
The wife and I road-trippin on the Connie.
I tried the lace and velcro on today at the gym. I wear a size 12 in galileo's comfortably with good performance, and an 11.5 in anasazi V2's, but too tight for more than a pitch or 2.

The lace was incredibly comfortable in a 12, It climbed decent in the gym but didn't edge terribly well. The toes are flatter and the sole is softer compared to my galileo's or anasazi's. Feels like a good all day shoe though.

The velcro in the same size felt tighter and bit less comfortable, I think it had a tid more volume in the toebox. It did edge a little better. I didn't wear them enough to say much more about them. They're lined leather so they'll probably stretch out a little and get more comfortable.

These have the lowest volume heel of any of the 5.10's i've tried, which is what drew me to try them on. Everything normally has alot of deadspace/bag in the heels for me and these were much better. The toe shape is a strange asymetric, it's almost a square corner from inside edge to front-point, slowly rounding out to the side edge. Probably not great for tiny pockets. They didn't focus the power as well on the outside edge as an anasazi or galileo because of the shape, but shape is the reason they're more comfortable.

Both of them have a very high toe rand that protects the toe knuckles if you're jamming. I think they'd do very well for crack and slab climbing, and would be a good all day shoe.

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By GhaMby
From Heaven
Mar 3, 2013
I heard tonight that our local store; Wilson's Eastside just got some in stock. I doubt they have my size though.

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