|Five Point to a Fist Crag
Five Point to a Fist has no know access issues. This is a old area that myself and my partner Travis "Buzz" Thompson put an anchor on early this year. There are five climbs that end in one 2-bolt anchor. On the left Allen has put a couple of slings on a tree but I'm not sure of the grade.
Five Points ranges from a not so friendly 5.6 to a stellar 5.9. All climbs are trad. Most climbs use a standard rack (few nuts and cams), but there is a gnarly piece of off-width to the far left. So if you plan on that, bring the off-width “bear clubbers”.
I took a nasty fall on this one, along with the 350 lbs. rock I was holding on to. The rock is split in half laying on the short trail as you approach, so check it out.
That being said, all the routes were mostly cleaned and should be good to go, but take care because it is the BTC and rock does have the tendency to move unannounced.
Cheers and Climb on!
Note: If you are planning to hit Linger Longer rock as well, please be conscious that Linger Longer is on private land. The guy that owns it is super cool and is ok with smart, courteous climbers.
P.S. Allen, we heard you were going to fix the bolt ladder on Linger Longer and do a little paint job; cheers to you for keeping the BTC from turning into a fanatically bolted area!
US Highway 34 west of Drake about 1.5 miles. 1 km west of Linger Longer Rock, in between Drake and Ann's Rock (AKA Jug Dome). It's located on the North side of road. There is a large parking area on the south side of the road.
A. Ring Finger, 6 PG-13, 70', gear.
B. Middle Finger, 9, 1p, 70', gear.
C. Pointer Finger, 7, 1p, 70', gear.
3 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',1]
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The Beast that damn near killed me.
|By allen simons|
Oct 18, 2007
Travis, I have the paint in my garage, Kyle and I just need to get up and do it.
As far as Five Finger, I have climbed numerous routes on this wall, most recently with my wife back in July. At that time, I had removed some old (years) slings off of a tree. In your photo, the overhang to the right goes at 5.11. Kyle Kingery and I did it several years ago, I really don't remember if we led it or TR'd it. I do remember hanging on a marginal cam, because a spider the size of an orange crawled out and tried to murder me. I know Kyle and I were not the FAs of this overhang, because there are two sets of initials etched into the base of these routes from a previous generation. We did lead a line to the right of the overhang (5.7)??? and called it Necessary Diversion.
|By Tymothe Meskel|
Oct 19, 2007
I think this crag naturally has it out for people. Allen with an orange-sized spider and me with the rock of death!
Thanks Allen for clearing up the hazy history of this Crag.
|By allen simons|
Oct 28, 2007
OK, the spider wasn't as big as an orange, I just hate spiders, so it seemed that way.
|By kyle kingrey|
Nov 20, 2007
Jim Disney calls this section with the overhang 'A1 Roof'. Jim gave a bit of history about this rock a few years ago. Across the river from this area and just a bit to the west is crag known as 'The Erection'. As far as the spider goes Al, it wasn't far from the size of an orange....plus it had orange markings on it. Nasty damn thing. Definitely made the climb a grade or two harder.
|By allen simons|
Jan 20, 2008
God, I'm having spider nightmares now. Kyle, you led the A1 that day didn't you? I think I just TR'd it.