|Lower Capitalist Crag
The route begins approximately 15 feet to the left of Lunch Money (just right of Cheap Labor). Easy climbing leads up the face below a short roof. Continue through the flaky/juggy roof and past a few ledges to the base of a clean headwall. Interesting, body positioning moves through the headwall will take you to the anchor.
The climbing to the base of the headwall follows the natural weakness in this area of the cliff. The route continues straight through the headwall to create a crux finish.
Bolted. Top anchor is 2 cold shuts and a 3rd hangered bolt (previously installed as a directional) can be clipped while toproping.
Getting away with it.
Ryan leading FFD.
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 20, 2010
Another indication that I was climbing horribly today. This route wasn't in our book and I would have given it an 11 rating. To me this was at least a number grade harder than the surrounding routes.
Did a hold break off the sloper headwall?
|By Dale D|
From: Parker, CO
Jul 29, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
A tad more difficult than Lunchmoney, which requires a little bit of muscle. More balance than brawn will get you through the crux up high - last two bolts.